Spark Plug Well Oil Leak Fix, Honda Accord – EricTheCarGuy

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I know I’ve promised this one for some time so here it is. If you have this problem I recommend replacing the seals in the valve cover first and then coming back to recheck for oil in the spark plug wells in about a month or so, if you find oil then I recommend performing this procedure. I can’t stress enough how important it is to make sure everything is lined up correctly when you reinstall the rocker assembly, bad things can happen if you don’t.

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40 thoughts on “Spark Plug Well Oil Leak Fix, Honda Accord – EricTheCarGuy”
  1. Gaska Cinch…holds any gasket in place…no slop over no plugged oil holes…apply to cover 1st…let air dry…while applying to gasket surface that goes to cover…ahhhhh 1 time & done…

  2. I was confident in doing this job Up into Eric saying “might have to adjust the valves”

  3. this guy very smart i like his videos my honda civic oil leak every were but still run honda 94 has 460.000 i have this car about 20 years from first owner i love this car its manual

  4. Good video. Was able to do this job last night. Took longer than expected but I am also OCD about things and triple check everything. I wanted to add something to this video. When you take off the assembly to get to the bottom seals, leave the bolts in the assembly. He did this on this video but didn't stress the importance of it. When he takes it to the bench and flips it over, all the bolts fall out. Try to keep these bolt in place when you go to change the rings because the whole assembly is spring loaded and those bolts hold the assembly together. There are holes in the rods of the assembly for the bolts. All of these need to be lined up perfectly for you to put it back together and mount it back on the motor. I had the assembly open up under the tension of the springs because I took the bolts out of the holes. Save yourself a bunch of time and make sure to keep those bolts on there. Luckily when the assembly opened up I was able to put it back together with some extra time and didn't lose any parts. I could see the potential for this issue to go worse though. Making a 3 hour job a 10 hour job. Lol. Great video got it done no leaks and car is running smooth! No more oil in the spark plug wells.

  5. Just did this 2 days ago and car is running extremely better until i hit 60…then it gets shaky. Thinking its the clearances between the rockarms and valve springs. Anyone know what that clearance is suppose to be? Cant find it in service manual. Engine is a D15B7

  6. I still love watching this video. I did this job on my 96 Accord LX almost 10 years ago because of this video. I would have never had the balls to attempt it until watching this because I had never worked on my own car before.

    The seals no longer leaked for the 7+ years I had the car after that before it finally died at 318k.

    Thanks again Eric!!

  7. Eric,

    I'm in this boat right now on a 93 with 101k miles. The deal here is, oil literally filled up every spark plug well. Pulling off the spark plug wires was met will a mess of oil on each wire removal.

    That said, I understand it could be a shot cam.

    This engine has gone through 2 alternators in just 20k miles, and the engine has had a vibrating problem for those same amount of miles. The idle is also sporadic.

    What do you think?

    🤔

  8. Does these Gaskets that are "underneath The Camshaft Assembly" and on the bottom of each Spark Plug Oil Well. Do these gaskets apply to all makes & models of Gasoline Internal Combusion Engines including todays models?

  9. Eric, I purchared a 2002 Mercury marquis with 65,000 miles on it. A test showed spark plug number 6 was misfireing and the engine light was on. I've been worried it might also have a valve cover gasket oil leak also. Is there any where else that can cause oil in the spark plug hole other than the valve cover gasket?

  10. Just had to buy $70 in new bolts because this guy gives the wrong torque setting twice for an F22b2 motor. The 12mm bolts are 16ftlbs and the 10mm bolts are 8.7ftlbs.

  11. Thanks for the video, it was a huge help and easy to follow and understand. I made a mistake, I tightened the bolts for the cover too much and broke one of the bolts, but you did mention not to do that, I wish I had paid more attention.

  12. My 98 Accord ex has same engine , same problem , oil in 2 of the sparkplug wells, and 2 cylinders not firing. does it have these same lower seals?

  13. So Eric I did this method and I replaced my spark plug gasket and I did all the torque spec and went back and double check everything everything is good. Next I change my oil and filter right after I did this, went for a drive and now my oil light have came on. My oil level is good there is no oil leak what's so ever… Not to mention I did replace new valve cover gasket and put the gasket maker on 4 corner. Went to the auto part and replaced my oil pressure sensor… And figure it would fix my issue and it didn't wasn't sure it would be a bad sensor even tho it's brand new. My car runs great its just that oil light comes on when I'm at a stop sign or light and when I go the light disappeared and same thing when it comes to a stop. Was there something I missed? Cause before I did this my oil light never came on until I did this method.

  14. So I just finished this and here's some advice:

    1. Maybe this doesn't matter but I would suggest setting the timing wheel to the "up" position before removing the rocker assembly. In the end, my wells aren't flooding with oil anymore but I was concerned about pressure on the rocker assembly having done the procedure while cylinder one was up on the exhaust valves.

    2. This engine is an F22B2. It is NOT similar to the F22B1 which is a VTEC engine. I tried tightening my B2 to the settings listed in the comments section and it still leaked oil. I set them to Eric's recommendations of 22 ft-lbs and 12 ft-lbs and it stopped leaking oil. F22B2 engines in my local junkyard were clicking at 26 lb-ft and 16 lb-ft. If you guys are breaking bolts, my guess is that you're doing so on a F22B1 using the F22B2 recommendations.

    3. There are 2 bolts size 10mm on the distributor. DO NOT tighten these two to anything more that around 5 or 6 lb-ft. They WILL break if you try to get them to 10 lb-ft , I know because I snapped one. Again, THEY ARE NOT THE SAME KIND OF BOLTS THAT HOLD THE ROCKER ASSEMBLY DOWN!

    4. I highly suggest using Indian Head shellac on the VCG. Makes it a lot easier than balancing spaghetti.

    5. I was able to get away without tapping the assembly down with a hammer or placing sealant on the corner of the VC gasket. Dunno if you should, but I haven't noticed any leaks yet.

    6. If you're replacing your spark plug O rings on a 5th gen Accord, you will probably have to change your SP seals, distributor oil seal, and distributor O ring as well. It's very possible that your heater core hose will need replaced also because when the distributor seal and O ring fail, the leaking oil rots out the heater hose. This causes a coolant leak and this slurry mixture rolls down hill and then rots the boots on your CV axles. Chances are that there's oil in your distributor cap, if so that will also cause misfires. Save time and grief by having all the rubber parts replaced at the same time. blast your dizzy out with brake clean, and hope for the best.

    7. Advance Auto sells a set of the dizzy O ring and Oil seal together, they also sell a kit that consists of the VCG, SP seals, and SP O rings together. The latter product is not returnable once it is opened. If you're REALLY looking to be cheap, you might be able to gamble with rubber parts out of junkyard cars. Most are plasticized but I've found usable-quality dizzy o rings and spark plug seals before. All things considered, it's probably just best to replace all the rubber at the same time and use new parts.

    8. It's a fantastic car. It's peppy, great on gasoline, lots of fun to drive, and they've been known to last over 400K miles with proper care.

  15. hi eric my name is steve i am malenas boyfriend and she told me all about you and i was kinda hesitant about watchiung what yoiu can do and i tell you what yoiur are a mechanical guru ive learned so much from you its crazy im old school and ive always just did things shes got a 1997 honda accord and omg it needed allot of mechanical things done since ive been seeing her ive fixed the mower blower took it all apart cleaned it and now it works like new i had to replace her breaks n rotors and lower ball joints i replaced her o2 sensors them breaks were a nightmare but i learned how to do all this stuff by youyr videos i fixed her ac i replaced the valve cover gasket and the o rings for the plugs becouse of the oil in the plug wells got all her lights working new heat shield just allot of mechanical things and ive never worked on a honda before and if it wasnt for you and your step by step instructions i would of never been abel to fix everything expecially the drivers side rotors and breaks pads i broke 2 half inch breaker bars to get that damn nut off but i gotter done becouse on your knowleg of a 1997 honda accord everything works perfect now and the ac will freeze you out i just wanted to say thank you for all the information you share with people you save allot of people money i never look to anybody else for help you the man thanks for all the help steve

  16. Brah I followed the guide and the manual, still broke a bolt at 9 ftlb lol 😆 truly you should just convert the ft lbs to inlbs and save you some trouble

  17. Thanks so much. It really help me when all else was failing. I looked and looked for a video that explains what other seals are involved. No more leak by replacing these 4 little gaskets on the bottom of the "Rib Cage"

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