Check out Kalvinator Engines: http://www.kalvinatorengines.com

While doing a pre assembly on my engine, #DarkMatterPikachu, we ran into some fitment issues with the lifter retainers. The reason for this is because of the aftermarket block I used. That’s linked below in case you’re curious.

We decided to so some modifications to the retainers instead of the block, mainly because it was the easier way to go.

This is the type of thing you often run into with custom work like this. So if you want to go fast, be prepared to work for it.

Thanks to Justin & Kevin Frische for their help in this video.

Previous video in the series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqyoEvYafMM

The #FairmontProject playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com

Camera: Brian Kast

Thanks for watching!

Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/66309-roller-lifter-modifications-darkmatterpikachu

Engine Details

Displacement: 363cid

The Block: http://www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/PBM/Block%20Kits/KITSBK-29

The Crank: http://www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/PBM/Clearance/PBM85207

The Heads: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6049-X302
Compression: 8.9:1

The Cam: Comp Cams custom grind: 222@.050″ 222@.050 .357″lobe lift .571″ valve lift (1.6 rocker) .351″ lobe lift .562″ valve lift (1.6 rocker) 114º separation 4ºadvance

Modified: Edelbrock Performer RPM intake

The Carburetor: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/demon/mighty_demon/parts/5402020BT

The Distributor: https://www.msdperformance.com/products/distributors/ford/parts/8582

The Ignition: https://www.msdperformance.com/products/ignitions/street_and_strip/parts/6462

The turbo Kit: http://www.on3performance.com/shop/1987-93-mustang-gtcobra-5-0-foxbody-turbo-system/

Related Videos

The #FairmontProject series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

#DarkMatterPikachu on the Dyno: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UADOHm6-BJc

Engine Balancing Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjuGkXpha8Q

**Answers to your automotive questions found here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq

Related Videos

How #DarkMatterPikachu got it’s name: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euGuucHprZM

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Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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35 thoughts on “Roller Lifter Retainer Modifications #DarkMatterPikachu #FairmontProject”
  1. There's no substitute or greater value when compared to the professional talents engrained through years of catastrophic failures, adjustable adaptiveness, procedural macgyvering, and what 👁️ believe to be the most valuable in this field………

    Paying attention to the task at 👋🏻·>=<· surrounding areas of effect.

    A keen eagle 👁️ makes all this type of job, no work at all. C that? It's in en' angle:

    •☆✪☆•Fix-I†•☆✪☆•

  2. Those "dogbones" look like they're going to stay in place for all of about 10 seconds at "high speed" even "modified" to "fit" and about as worthless as tits on a boar for "self-retention" which is the FIRST "job" they must do before "lifter alignment" even becomes a "concern". Clearly they were "designed" for those equally "odd" lifters or they wouldn't fit THOSE so "well". And it looks like the lifters are dropping OUT of them at "zero lift" so only an "expert" unwilling to face the music and get the RIGHT PARTS and "eat crow" over ordering the "wrong parts" would consider using them even if they weren't such obvious disasters waiting to happen. What the hell is the "rivet" in the middle of them for? "Ballast"? Looks like somebody with a CNC machine and a "business plan" and maybe an "engineering degree" but absolutely zero clue decided to go into the "aftermarket high-performance parts" racket and probably selling an "affordable alternative" that's "worth every penny" until you start the engine.

  3. That's why you only buy quality parts "guaranteed" to either fit or be "returnable" for a "full refund" or even with a "restocking fee" and make sure not to destroy the packaging like a little kid tearing open Christmas presents so you can return the parts "new in box". Damaged/destroyed original packaging is the number one reason most "enthusiasts" seem unable to "return" parts people with a clue have no problem returning because they've been around the block enough times with even the "wrong parts" in the "right box" to know that if you "buy it" you "own it" but as long as you can return it in the condition in which it was received, the "supplier" is PROBABLY going to "buy it back" since the alternative is somebody who showed good faith being "stuck" with something the way no "supplier" ever is or wants to be when THEY inevitably end up with the "wrong parts" from one of THEIR "suppliers". Not being a little asshole "demanding" shit and acting like a human being who has "interacted" with adults besides just asking Mommy and Daddy for their "allowance" is also a "bonus" when it comes to "getting what you want" when you already did so once but simply didn't get what you "needed".

  4. So with this series of videos, I keep asking myself, how much do these modifications hurt the structural strength of these parts? How do you know?

  5. ITT: guys making excuses for not doing it the right way.
    Clearance the block ( mill or burr ), clean the block, then move the fuck on.
    If you take the easy way, you will eventually pay for it twice.

  6. i don't see how removing material would hurt anything: the lifters' turning pressure should be negligible to stress the dogbone. plus, the dogbone has two ends that hold each other from moving, along with what the comments say is a brace that goes over the top of every dogbone, later.

  7. So… what kind of damage are we looking at, other than the cam's getting "shoveled" down, if God forbid later down the road (or should I say drag strip/track) these dog bones end up failing?
    Probably not much else?

  8. Personally i would have ground on the block alittle bit and used a good pencil grinder and red stone with a vacume at the bit to keep the shavings from even leaving the grinding spot.

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