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Probably the biggest complaint I get about brakes is noise. Replacing brake hardware can go a long way to help preventing noisy brakes.

Your new brake pads may come with new brake clips, but if they don’t, consider picking some up when you replace your pads for quiet operation.

Thanks for watching!

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42 thoughts on “Replace Brake Hardware & Get Rid of Squeaky Brakes -EricTheCarGuy”
  1. 2011 eclipse- Got my brakes done .. had to brake hard goofing around, car made terrible clacking sounds. I thought my rotor was warped but my friend adjusted my brake hardware twice.. It was making a popping creaking crunch and skipping sound.. really loud and embarrasing.. thought my shocks cv joints were broke. The mechanic that put my brakes on didnt bend the hardware tabs with a flathead and hammer them.. they were all straight as an arrow. So far its been quiet with a little squeek coming to a stop. Should I replace any pads or hardware?..

  2. We supply the OE industry with Ceramic Brake Lubricant, it is rated at over 2500F and has high concentrations of solids. Since technicians are confused regarding lube properties, I felt it would be of value to discuss it here. Eric said to place Silicone on the top of the clips but this is not an application recommended by the manufacturer. It is not a brake lubricant and it never was, according to manufacturer's Dow and GE. Silicone is only 400 F (to low for brakes) but more important is the fact that it has "zero solids". When you are moving metal against metal parts we must separate them, it takes boundary lubricants with solids in the 30 and 40 percent range… not zero. http://www.Ceramlub.com

  3. I like the BLACK moly lube in the pads and silicone on the "Sliders". The hardware is almost always required to reduce the squeaks.They get tired and lose their tension.Got a Volvo or Mercedes? Getting used to it? No. Get the hardware kit with the pads………

  4. Eric I have a question for you working on a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am one of the rotors were leaking so I replace the front rotors and pads, back pads and bled everything when I was done the brake pedal gets hard and act properly when the car is off when you start the car the brake goes to the floor it does not stop the vehicle I bleed the brakes from the start meaning I took the master cylinder off and bench bleed it and bled it again from the top why was in the car and then bled All 4 tires about 10 times each with no air coming out car seem to be fine when I started the car the brake pedal went to the floor any suggestions thanks for any of your help.

  5. Before installing new abutment shims, clean off any scale and rust under them. Applying a thin scarce coating of antiseize to the cleaned metal of the frame (not the shims), will deter future rusting.

  6. But what happens in 2-5 years and 20-50k miles later? It will be bone dry and there is still no squeaking. I have seen countless systems with no lube make no noise. I think is relies in the pad design, pad material, and rotor surface.. Of course there's other causes of noise, but "brake hardware" is definitely very low on the list of possibilities.

  7. Hello from AUS Eric.Just like to like you know here in Australia no brands sell brake pads with hardware. If and when we want hardware we have to go to the dealer or if they are no longer available try and find some second hand. As you can imagine this has its problems.Cheers

  8. why does my car make a knocking or a hard vibrate noise when i started it up specially in cold morning hut when it warm up is sound great no noise or nothing. my car is a 1996 honda civic

  9. instead of anti seize, i think mobil grease would be just fine, right? i used to use silicone on the hardware too but they attract dirt (i use ceramic pads)

  10. A companion video about the importance of replacing drum brake hardware would be beneficial. No one ever replaces what are usually 20+ year old springs that are absolutely critical for proper function (especially of the parking brake).

  11. What about If you don't find new hardware? Can we restore them by cleaning and bending them so they do better job of holding the pads? Can you demonstrate?

  12. I know not everyone has the option but in shop we used to sandblast the caliper brackets and take a wire wheel to the slide pins. A wire brush can do the same job in the driveway with a bit of extra work.

  13. I don't use brakes on my car. I just slide up against gard rails or other cars to help me stop. The cops keep telling me to cut it out. I also sometimes use an occasional tree to help me slow down. My car still doesn't have a scratch on it. It looks brand new. It's a 1973 Acura TL with 500 million miles on it. It's a triple overhead cam with a 20 speed manual transmission. It has 10 cylinders and runs on straight jet fuel. It gets 300,000 miles a gallon. I just replaced both sets of tandem tires in the front and back. It provides 500,000 horsepower and seats 12 passengers with the third row seat lifted up..😀😀😀😃

  14. No Camara man Brian? OK now for the real question: Is there some hardware/shims that you should not grease? (Like the ones Scotty Kilmore referred to in his recent video for example.)

  15. Nice video Erick!! I have been working on rear brakes on my gmc safari and they are complicated for me.I'm not a mechanic, I just do it for fun. it will be nice if you come across a car like mine and you can shoot a video of it. Thanks

  16. is it just me or has anyone else had problems with brake pads being to tight? ive had to grind them down just to fit in the caliper mount. ive done pretty much everything to eliminate problems on my end, cleaning under the stainless guides, even gone as far as sand blasting the mounts to have them 100% free of rust. aftermarket pads still fit like shit. i cant even remember how many times and how may vehicles ive had to do this on. but alot. if your pads are too tight they wont return and will drag after releasing the brakes.

  17. What Engine did that ecscursion have? was it the 7.3, the 6.8 or the 5.4? And was the problem the caliper sticking?

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