Load Testing A Battery – EricTheCarGuy

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Whenever I post a video these days I wonder if I covered everything and if I presented the information correctly. I have that feeling with this video as there is so much I could cover with batteries. Lets just call this one the “quick” version and hopefully it will get you through the process of checking the battery without too much trouble.

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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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44 thoughts on “Load Testing A Battery – EricTheCarGuy”
  1. Can load testing cause damage to the vehicle? I went to a battery shop to get my battery tested and I wanted to disconnect the battery but the guy there said that there is no need to and did the test. But I am still worried that some damage may have been done to the car's electronics. He used some electronic tester – not so large as this, but not small either.

  2. in a comment you noted: it is paramount that you load test the battery before doing any other testing.  so i wonder: is it key to load test a battery before testing the alternator?  can a good alternator fail if a battery seems ok but fails a load test?  or are they independent/separate tests? 
    the honda dealership only basic tested my battery (didnt load test), then tested the alternator which failed, replaced it, the load tested the battery as a last step which failed.  so now i wonder if i got fleeced.

  3. 2:00  you'll need a battery load tester.  battery must be fully charged, after a drive.  battery shuold read over 12v.  wear glasses, gloves.  click the load test button for 10-15 seconds and if battery drops under 9 volts, it fails.

  4. Hey Eric what's up brother. My battery died and when I bought another I noticed that the bottom plastic hold down piece held the battery down but not completely. You could move the battery while clamped down with your hand. I was told by a auto instructor that if your battery moves around while your driving it could cause it to drain prematurely. Long story short use a small ratchet strap around your battery & tray. Nice.

  5. Sorry man but you said test for 10 seconds " The Magic Number " as you called it but you did it for about 3 seconds…..so what gives…3 seconds or 10 seconds?
    Cheers from Canada North

  6. I just tested 3 batteries and all the were not running the cca ratings and were all under even after charging.If the battery is fully charged on a nice 80degree day shouldnt it hit the cca no problem?

  7. Got my 8 year old battery to AutoZone for a test. Turns out the battery was so bad it couldn't even be tested. I watched the guy repeatedly try to test it. I figure I was lucky to get the car into their parking lot.

  8. These things really don't work… the Vat 40 and the multi meter way are more accurate. These style of "load tester" don't truly load test.

  9. The tester that he used is $35 at Walmart and $20 at Harbor Freight. As of 12/2018. With a 20% coupon at Harbor Freight it's $16. If you buy the tester, you MUST accept a temporary position as "final quality inspector" for a Chinese company.

  10. where is your WHOLE video on battery issues. Just fixed and diagnoised a faulty solenoid on a 525TDS bmw. Prob was it was not all its fault but the screwes shorting the positive poles could of had something to do with it also. However, since the replacement of that unit. Wow it turns nicely and yes it started the car. ran for 30 secs then I switched it off. 10 mins later added small amount of potective grease over those solenoid poles cleaned up excess. Went to start the car and errr. turn turn turn turn chugg chugg turn COUGH splutter. START! and wham.. dies after 2 seconds. repeat x4 same thing. dies after it sarts. 5 attmpt errr uhmmm, think the power in the battery is almost gone. It was a fully charged battery 110Amps. Problem is, I think someone swapped it out of a bleeding old battery. cannot tell at all the year of it. so please where is your battery video.. thanks

  11. I just use a voltmeter, run tests; checked before, got a reading of 9.31VDC I already knew she was a goner due to some simple tests I did but I proceeded. I jump started her and she jump to 14.3VDC in no time, I immediately knew it was not the alternator which was what I was checking for and so, I tossed her out and got a new battery and she is all good now.

  12. On a diesel with 2 batteries, should the cables be removed to keep from getting back feed from the second battery. In other words I would need to do 2 seperate test on isolated batteries?

  13. Hello there
    My battery would always die over night. So I checked it out and checked my earth cable because it was loose. I then drove the car for about 20 kms and then got home. Did a few things and then my car didn’t want to start. But before driving, I checked it my battery out and it was charging but I don’t know why when I switch it off it doesn’t want to start again.

    How now brown cow?

  14. Was great info for noobs around batteries, too bad you threw in the cranking amps segment – totally confuses anyone just following the load test info.

  15. When you do a help video you are not a movie star or a hot babe so we do not need to see you! Show the device is enough. Was helpful although

  16. Honda dealership told me I needed a new battery when my voltage was reading 14.2 with engine running and 13.2 engine off. The battery is less than a year old and I have ZERO issues with it. Autozone later confirmed a GOOD battery. How does Honda dealership mess with load printouts????

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