How To Install a Nylon Cam Button

1. It's because you have the wrong timing cover. You're using the flat style & you need to use the one that has the middle sticking out more. It's like a tri-blade design. That cover works perfect.

2. Those cam buttons do not work with summit true roller timing chains for BBC

3. Erick you used the wrong timing cover , the proper cover would have an indentation with 3 flanges. also your cover will flex… lastly, you need a cam gear with a Torrington bearing to keep the cam going backwards… im certified Crane Cams valvetrain tech

4. This is a more common problem than people think. Flat tappets do not shift like this. On my wife's '04 Chevy Astro. It stalled out on the highway. The distributor gear was eaten away. We drove other vehicles we have. But as a project I would like to fix it. It is a nice van.
   In California, the Air Resources people have identified cam walk as a reason vehicles fail inspection. Iskedarian identified this problem on 1960's Chevrolet engines with a roller cam.

5. Can anyone explain why the can moves

6. Great vid, keep up the great work.

7. 'Nylon'?! Yeah, not a fan of anything but metal going near a source of heat, especially the more heat there is!

8. Great video Eric. Beard is looking good. I need to make my way back to Ohio and stop over and see ya.

9. killer

10. This video was great. Install… hmmm, that didn't work. Disassemble, sand, hammer, ugh. Disassemble, sand, hammer, ugh…. Can't say how many times I've done this sort of thing, the whole time thinking in the back of my mind, "Well I hope this works."

11. Watched it on the full build.. thank u

12. You could have just warmed up the spot on the timing cover with an oxy torch and thermally clearanced it.
    i.e. melt it.

    This is a crap idea, yes.

13. Damn it.

    I installed it on the dash.

14. So this is just to set the camshaft clearance just like thrust clearance for the crankshaft using thrust washers?

15. The advantage of using a metal Torrington bearing one is that you can precision shim the cam button using shim packs behind it. Much quicker than cut and try as above. McMaster-Carr sells shims that will fit the bore in the TC gear, and you can dial it in much faster.

16. For those wondering on using plastic… From my experience it doesn't really matter so long as some positive clearance exists. You don't want it confined, but it shouldn't be sloppy, either. The thrust load from driving the distributor gear and oil pump (on many OHV engines, but not all!) pulls the cam back towards the rear of the engine and holds the cam gear thrust face against the block. The cam button is really only insurance in case the cam walks forward for some reason (e.g. sudden stall). Otherwise it seldom sees any real loading. I have a Torrington one on mine, and with an anodized aluminum timing chain cover, theres no evidence of it ever making contact with the cover. Even the Torrington bearings can only handle about 20 lbs. of dynamic load, so you don't want the cam pushing on the timing chain cover, anyhow, which is why they need a tiny (~.005 – .010") of clearance.

17. Good video Eric

18. lmao, nice LOTR reference

19. Aw man recycle… gay

20. DON'T FORGET to support/brace the timing cover where the button will contact it!
    A 1/16" steel strap the width of the cover, welded to the outside is enough to keep the forward thrust from bending the cover – going from wide open throttle to closed throttle a few times is enough to bow out the cover.
    There are also thrust buttons that use a steel button with a roller bearing behind it, these use shims as part of the kit to adjust where the button sits – a lot less work than trimming the nylon buttons.
    You can leave the rear cam plug out while you're setting endplay.
    Glad you mentioned cam buttons – more than a few SBCs have been "hurt" by migrating camshafts!

21. I'd just put a cam plate in it instead of a cam button and use factory style roller lifter retention. I see that others have mentioned the same.

22. Nice "how to" on plastic button.. but … as he stated, the other was is; CAM PLATE.. Your block even has the spider hold down holes drilled and tapped. More money yes.. but it'll last and you can use OEM style lifters using the dog bones… which are cheaper then the bar types. No guess work.. two screws, plate, done. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150123 ; I don't mean to sound abrasive to this method, or to ETCG.. just pointing out the other ways. They also sell spring loaded buttons you don't need to cut.

23. 🖒🖒🖒🖒🖒👍👌

24. 5 time lucky

25. Woow watches the other video first…

26. Nylon bad, steel good, ask scroll compressors.

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