My old K member was for the i6 and would not accommodate the new V8 engine I’m putting in the Fairmont. I had to swap the K member no matter what. I decided to go with a tubular K member and I purchased a used one from a viewer out in Washington state.

Since my Fairmont is a fox body, this video will apply to Mustangs and other fox bodies.

One thing to note. I did not show how to properly align a K member in this video. I plan on making a future video on how to do that. In the mean time, you can use the information in this video to help you sort that out.

http://powernationtv.com/episode/EP2014-13/barely-legal-mustang-part-2

If you’re looking for a K member for you fox body, check out Maximum Motorsports: http://www.maximummotorsports.com

Previous video in the #FairmontProject series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ujajK758qo

The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com

Camera: Brian Kast

Thanks for watching!

Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/65415-how-to-install-a-fox-body-k-member-fairmontproject

Tools

Rockwell 1/2″ Electric Impact: https://www.rockwelltools.com/en-US/20V-Brushless-Impact-Wrench-RK2855K2.aspx

Telescoping Rod for brake pedal: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-46170-hood-prop-telescopes-from-20-to-48-1-4#oid=1002_1

Transmission Jack: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/sunex-7793b-1000-lb-1-2-ton-telescopic-transmission-jack#oid=1002_1

Torch Kit: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200413934_200413934?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Welding%20%3E%20Gas%20Welding%20%2B%20Cutting%20Apparatus&utm_campaign=Northern%20Industrial%20Welders&utm_content=171742&cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=google_PLA&utm_campaign=&mkwid=so8cSpKUs&pcrid=39155627516&devicetype=c&gclid=CLaF_Mz1ys4CFYGEaQodScgFwA

Face Shield: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/sas-safety-5145-deluxe-face-shield-clear#oid=1002_1

Die Grinder: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/ingersoll-rand-302bk-composite-die-grinder-kit-2-3#oid=1002_1

Related videos

How To Lift and Support Your Vehicle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OyzbGDn6xg

How To Use a Torch:

Fairmont Frame Connectors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3EUnYroA0s

#FairmontProject Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

**Answers to your automotive questions found here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq

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Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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36 thoughts on “How To Install a Fox Body K Member #FairmontProject”
  1. Hey, question about this almost 4 years later, could you have just left the stock engine on the K frame, and then lifted the car off from the engine?

  2. I did not have to cut the springs on my fox body mustang, you do need to pry them out (fronts), but they will not spring out onto your face.

  3. I have no clue how that frame is going to handle 600+ HP.. One reason they use Art Morrison frames. Way better. Stronger and faster to build. In the end it's cheaper…..

  4. At around 25 minutes, you are fitting the K member bolts to the frame; you decided to grind out the slots on the K member to accept the wider spacing. Is there a reason you chose that route instead of cutting the tapped backer plate in the middle? (Trying to learn, not trying to critique. From a structural strength perspective I would have imaged some other trimming may be more idea. What did I not think of?)

  5. I am doing the same thing to a 1989 Fox Mustang that came with a 2.3. What brand of K-Member is the one you installed? I do enjoy your videos, they are down to earth so a simple guy like myself can understand them. Keep them coming. Wild Harold

  6. Just a quick note… the old K member bolts 'are' stretch the yield and should not be reused. If you wanted to replace the K member bolts it is suggested the use new flag nuts that are still available due to they're long run on the Mustang. Great build!

  7. Nice job, Eric. Note that those aren't struts; they're shocks. Remove them completely prior to dropping K member to reduce the risk of them swinging out and hitting you or the car during removal (you almost dented one of your fenders). This would also allow you to simply remove the springs (using a jack or similar for safety) rather than cutting them with a torch under compression (presents other risks, including fire, burns, or the spring flying out as it is being cut). Also, PBBlaster or other penetrating solvent is your friend prior to removing any fasteners, particularly crusty suspension bits exposed to the elements for nearly forty years.

  8. Eric i watched your videos and i wonder, do you pre-losen those bolts before using those electric torque guns? I got a snap on one and it cant do the with the 3/8 gun and using a 1/2 is so cumbersome. If its the gun then what brand and torque they rated at?

  9. Did you manage to figure out the fender clearance issue since putting in the new K-member and new control arms? About to buy a tubular K-member on my fairmont and wondering if i really need the new control arms or if I'll still have to make some modifications either way

  10. As a standard rule, ANY slotted hole should have a washer under the bolt head. The bolts that were there had flanged heads, and I suppose that was 'good enough' for Ferd in '79 – but in a situation like that it would have been advisable to put some washers on all of those bolts before putting them in place.

    Mainly I mention this as a matter of future reference. If you're ever bolting something on with slotted holes like that, you should really put some washers on the bolts. Even if they weren't there before.

  11. The need to hog out the rear holes is a known issue on early Fox bodies. As you've discovered, the spacing between the holes is slightly different on the later cars (which the K-members are designed for).

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