My 2005 Honda Element had some clear coat issues and some small rust spots on the tailgate. In this video I show how I repaired these with tools most DIYers have. I also show how I ‘blacked out’ my emblems without damaging the vehicle finish.
I’m not a paint or body repair technician, I’m a mechanic, I’m sure I could have done better, but I’m very happy with the results of my efforts, especially the blacked out emblems. No matter what, I hope you find the information useful.
In addition to the clear coat repair, I also try and realign the hatch as well as upgrade my tail lights to LEDs.
Thanks for watching!
#ETCGVideo #ETCGWatson #HondaElement
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Parts/Tools (some are affiliate links)
Honda Emblem: 75701-SCV-A01
Element Emblem: 75722-SCV-A10
Paintscratch.com: https://www.paintscratch.com
Eastwood Chassis Black: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-extreme-chassis-black-paint.html
Duplicolor Prep Spray: https://amzn.to/3gWQ1Ke
Zep Vandel Mark Remover: https://amzn.to/3n0di1A
Eraser Wheel: https://amzn.to/3yH2Vlz
Wizzy Wheel: https://amzn.to/3yyA5Us
Plastic Razor Blades: https://amzn.to/3zLO0YQ
Scotchbright Pads: https://amzn.to/3DIMUzm
2 Sided Tape: https://amzn.to/3jE58d7
Tail Light LEDs: https://amzn.to/3kGLVqE
Flashing 3rd Brake Light LED: https://amzn.to/2VdIaQS
Reverse Light LEDs: https://amzn.to/3BPyyvp
Related Videos
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How To Properly Install LED Tail Lights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzjDgPbwPKI
Body Shop Repairs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5RRJZrhkBI&t=2s
Easy Rust Repair the (Hack) Way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kw5CNQJJkaA&t=60s
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Honda Element Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2i-lhxkIF8&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov1U3cVeQ3Sm1fXclclY1UZe
Fixing it Forward Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfBnTwpEBu0&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov1b4BFvZbRMV4Xs_rZlBItj
Type R Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OfMvfFSztM&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov0sJT52tXnm59Vbk1wCvhGd
Dads Truck Series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCepnacqRuI&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov1g_GML2aVq6EN-_ShJ9G2o
The Fairmont Project: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs
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Stay Dirty
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
5:52 these screws are for adjusting up/down/left/right… Not in/out. its obvious from their location after closing the trunk.
7:02 you can take of the trunk door, and make those holes for hinges bigger, so you can push the trunk door deeper.
8:35 i think thats illegal in most countries.
27:15 it looks awfull. You should buff it a little
Those bulbs add a certain element to the brake lights.
Or you could have just used some black Plasti Dip on the emblems without removing them
should of used 2k clear coat eric, 1k clearcoat doesn't last with washing products and it fades alot faster with sunlight and it lasts for a very long time.
You need a brake light to pattern light to indicate you're stopping?
What is the world coming to 😀
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And another great video Eric! I am currently battling tailgate rust on my 2010 Ford Escape. I'm doing almost exactly what your doing and I found that hitting it with 1000 grit between coats is working great. I went with the body lines for transition from grey to factory "silver ingot" and achieved a cool "tu tone" look. Found that cool effect by accident since the factory colors are delayed in shipping! Lol! Stay dirty my friend and thanks as always for the great videos!
Nice job
I was taught to use the prep (PrepSol back then), before any sanding. Otherwise, the wax and other things that would be removed by the prep get sanded in.
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I think your hatch brackets might be bent.
They make LED bulbs by themselves that have the anti hyperflash where you don't need anything else.
Its ridiculous what they charge for those emblems!
Its just a badge, stick it on anywhere he he
Eric I added a rear spoiler aftermarket from Carid. Painted was around $250, easy install
Goof off would have took that adhesive right off.
Warts and all mate, love it. Real life huh 🙂
You'll get a much nicer paint job if you just use more paint. As a rank amateur myself, I repainted the silver "gas barbeque burner" parts of my old Ridgeline a gun metal grey color. Applied several coats of the gun metal grey, getting thicker each time, then I applied a whole bunch of coats of gloss clear, basically an entire can. I wet-sanded up to 3000 grit then polished it in several steps. When it was done it looked like a factory finish and it was seriously tough. It was bombarded by rocks tossed up by other cars and looked no worse than the bumper and front of the hood. And, of course, it looked very cool.
Cover the holes from the inside!!
Eric I have to buy an axel for a 1997 f 150 four wheel drive 4.6 engine. How do I find out if it's limited slip or what ever. Thanks.