Link to full version of this video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/vmanuals/22-vmanual-store/155-2007-chevy-tahoe-53l-engine-replacement-vmanual

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I really hope this puts your questions to bed as I feel this is past due but some of you brought up some very good questions that I felt should be addressed. The engine is going back to the salvage yard so we are done doing videos on it.

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23 thoughts on “2007 Chevy Tahoe Engine Part 5, The End – EricTheCarGuy”
  1. Eric, I’ve watched a lot of your videos, for multiple reasons, this one just started playing for some reason but I let it play bc I have 3 5.3s. I just picked up a 2002 suburban and am kinda stoked bc it’s drive by cable, something that should have never been changed bc there was nothing wrong with it & drive by wire is total bs… not going to get into that. So my question for you is this, so I was running some sea foam top end spray into the new old truck as it has 200k+ miles and I always assume that people do not care for their motor as they should. Anyways the butterfly valve has a tiny hole in it right in the bottom of the front of it…. so instead of using the provided long straw w a bend in it, I got the bright idea to just use a short little red straw & shoot it through the little hole….. I’m sure you can imagine where I’m going with this… thinking… what a dumbass!!! I know that was my thoughts after it happened… anyways As you can imagine that little straw got sucked right up into the throttle body!!! I ran around & turned the truck off ASAP and then I removed the throttle body, clean all that out, removed the brake booster hose & haven’t found anything yet…, I’m about to start to take the whole top end off now. Just wanted to get your opinion about how far in it has gone/where I might find it and how bad it will be. Thanks, always appreciate your help via you videos on YouTube.

  2. Hey Eric the reason cylinder #6 doesn't have compression is because that engine have cylinder on demand maybe one or both of the lifters is collapse or stuck in open position inside the engine

  3. Erick you are Exactly Right and the Reason I know this is I have seen it Before , You can see it on top of the Piston and at the Top of the Cylinder Wall. I have seen this 2 times before and I thought I was Crazy and now I see it again in your Engine I got the Clean Piston top on both engines and on one of them I got The Browning at the Top of the Cylinder but not in the Other. I believe you are Correct in your Assessment because that is what I determined also.

  4. Not to open up an 8 year old can of worms, but I just watched this video series. Just want to add my .02 cents. The gap in those rings is perfect. When the engine is at temperature the gap is reduced to around .003 (or almost closed). I agree the rings were aligned – but that does not matter. As an engine runs, the rings 'flutter' and they slowly rotate all the time. This can cause a slight combustion leak at cold temp, but not at operating temp. Long story short – the two top rings did not cause the issue. What probably caused this is a crack in the block. I guarantee there was a hairline crack somewhere in that cylinder – not readily visible. The oil rings tells the tale. Coolant seeped into the cylinder, eventually seized the oil rings, and obviously loss of compression. I have seen a hairline crack in a very similar engine – so bad that oil was actually blowing out through the exhaust, the converter was full of oil…In this case the coolant (which surrounds the cylinder) was introduced to oil when the engine was at temperature and the crack opened up…

  5. I know this is very old, and I'm not doubting anything, but I wanted to share some experiences as it was interesting. I have actually been part of Dyno testing to determine if ring stacking will affect compression, and we found two interesting facts. When lined up and assembled, we could see no difference in compression between cylinders with lined up rings and those staggered 90 degrees. What was even more interesting is that when disassembled after test, the rings had significantly moved. Those that were lined up no longer were, and some that were staggered were close to lined up. Given the carbon in this engine, if any rings were stuck, that could cause compression loss as well. A last rule of thumb is that ring Gap of 0.004 per inch of bore is about where you want to be for a street engine, as the ring heats, the Gap will close. If this is a 5.3, 0.015" Gap cold is pretty good.

  6. I need some answers on 2008 chevy tahoe 5.3 liter had no knock miss didnt lose any coolant engine oil full will not turn by hand took all the plugs oit front cover off drained engine oil no sign of nothing wrong what could have happened to the engine possible rod cap bolts broke maybe not for sure thanks to anyone helping

  7. You all got it wrong bud 706 head look for any clean spots on top of the head bet you well find one = craked head 4.8 5.3 6.0 ,,,03 to 09 vortech used castech castings i say this because the mashinest explained show it to me as he explained the whole magnaflux prosses

  8. A head gasket would be between two cylinders and not just one. The damage/discoloration was away from the coolant passages. It was a ring issue/cylinder out of round on that number six. .015 is a lot for piston rings. Head gasket would not cause that. Poor maintenance was probably another big factor in all this as you can see a lot of oxidation and buildup. An engine with a good oil used and regular changes should be much cleaner than this especially at less than 150k.

  9. I have one question. When you pushed that piston out of its bore, the ring gaps were about 180 degrees from the site of discoloration. Doesn't that in itself disprove the aligned ring gap theory?

  10. Eric, I have had Tahoes most of my adult life and I have to say, I have learned more about a Tahoe from watching your videos than I've ever come across in my entire life-time of owning Tahoes. Awesome job for sure!  I've owned a 1998, 2007, and presently a 2008 LTZ (4×4) 5.3L Vortec that runs as if it only had 10K miles on it. It actually has 156k miles, K&N Cold Air Intake installed, High speed tires, Diablo High Performance package – along with plugs and wires to match and soon to have Borla exhaust. Question - granted I don't race my Tahoe but it is nice to have that speed when you want it (especially during private security contracts). I am stringent about changing the oil every 3-5k miles and ensuring that all fluids/lubricants and tire pressures are maintained at their best at all times. If I continue to maintain that maintenance philosophy will adding the Turbo cause failures. Meaning, if I add a Turbo Charger will it cause the motor (Crank-shaft, Block, Water pump, Rods, Pistons, Rings, Exhaust Gaskets, transmission, differential gears, electronics…etc…) to fail frequently or will it just enhance the capability and speed of my Tahoe? Thanks again for the insight.

  11. eric noway!! it was the roller lifter snapped in half not opening the cylinder to let air in but alowing fuel to wash the cylinder.. no compression from no air getting in. and air leaking into the crank case would be maybe it wasnt top dead center? for sure not lose of compression from the rings. i ran 2.2 turbos back in the early 90's shattered pistons at 30lbs boost better yet ringland colapsed and broke rings and had compression still just serious blow by half compression still idled fine. only piston top discoloration from liquid entering changine temps fast removed carbon like headgasket which this isnt it .. but fuel colecting on top would..

  12. have 2007 sububan 5.3 afm 25 lbs compression cylinder 7 through research learned about collapsed lifters on 4,6,1,7 removed valve cover no movement on intake lifter on #7the reason for no compression is the lack of air being drawn in no air in no air to compresshopefully replacing the lifters will make it last another 100,000

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