2005 Honda Odyssey (Episode 6) The VCM Episode Fixing it Forward

1. For my piece of mind, id drop the pan, clean out what ever junk is obviously still in there, and change the filter a few times. My thought process is, if that crap is making it past the filter and getting caught in that screen, its also going through the oil pump and bearings.

2. "If you feel the sudden urge to buy bread, you can thank me." (20:55)
   Such class – still the best on YouTube. 👍

3. Lol still just uses a parts cannon. Nice bro 👍🏼

4. I put this in a reply to another comment but will post it here for anyone interested in this VCM system. I am well-versed in this system.

   The reason this VCMDIPressor didn't work is that 167F is the number. More on that below. Even when VCM is working as designed, with no codes, it will do all the things you described…plug fouling, cat clogging, ring sticking, etc. That's why Honda has re-ringed so many engines. Disabling it will save the owner from all that. Regardless of the existence of the P2647 code, this van should have a properly installed VCM defeat device. You did figure it out at the end but the oil pressure transducer is the feedback to the computer to tell it that, yes, it commanded ECO and it went into ECO mode. When it doesn't see the proper feedback is when it will set the code. A couple of other points:

   1. To prevent VCM activation you need the coolant temp signal sent to the PCM to stay below 167F. This is well documented all over the Odyssey/Pilot forums. If you're pulling it down to only 180F then VCM will continue to kick on. 167F on ECT1 is the temp the computer wants to see to enable VCM. Below that it won't come on. As mentioned by @Mike 5 Bridges, the VCMTunerII is the best device and will handle everything and prevent VCM problems. I've never even heard of the VCMDIPressor or whatever that thing is you bought. I've never seen one used. I've seen VCMuzzler 1 & 2 (fixed passive resistor but comes with a few different ones,) VCMTuner 1 (variable resistor,) VCMTunerII (active electronic device) and SVCM (active electronic device.) Those are the three dependable ones. The VCMTunerII has a couple of other features like an accelerometer that will turn it off and send normal temp to the PCM when the vehicle sits for 2 min or more at idle without moving. This allows you to do idle relearns and other diagnostics when in the service bay. Also, with the passive devices there are still times when the temp will indicate above 167F and it will still go into ECO mode, and if your valve has a problem you'll get the code. You need to fix the valve and install the device. The active devices will kill VCM 100% of the time unless the engine overheats…additional protection offered by the active devices.

   2. You were on the right track at the end, as the best way to handle the P2647, aside from masking it by disabling VCM, is to replace the entire valve assembly. Most of the time I've found the valve assembly itself causing the issue and replacing the switch/transducer isn't the problem. An OEM Honda valve assembly is $500+ but you can get a Wells or Standard Motor Product for half of that, which is what an OEM Honda switch by itself costs. I've had good success on several vans with them with no come-backs. The gaskets will last longer than those Dorman gaskets…been there done that.

5. I have seen a few of these vans going down the road that would give a brief cloud of blue smoke. I bet that system is the cause.

6. You showed a lot more patience than I would have.
   F it lets trade it in!

7. So I learned that paper towel with the nut in a socket trick from Eric a long time ago and it has been one of the greatest tricks to pass on to others. Thanks Eric.

8. Thank you Eric always learning from you I am from a very sad South Africa

9. I had the same exact issue with my 08 Accord 2.4L and its P2646 code which was regarding my vtc solenoid (spool valve). I changed the whole assembly with a honda oem part ($120) that includes new gaskets, o ring and oil pressure switch (37250-PRB-A01). I also changed the oil to ensure the engine has fresh oil in it. After driving it for a bit when I pass 5000 rpm, I still had the same engine code and later on my code changed to P2647 when I started the car and was idling. That led me to believe that the pressure switch, which was already BRAND NEW from honda. I couldn't return it because it's an electronic part so i ended up buying a new oil pressure switch from eBay for $17 (not sure if it was oem or a counterfeit). The funny thing was, there are two different part numbers for the pressure switch and the one I got had on (and the one replaced) was a blue connector (Part no. 37250-PRB-A01) and I bought one with a black connector (part no. 37250-PNE-G01). The TSB for my car also mentioned to replace the sensor with the black connector and replace the PS with 37250-PRB-A01. And after 5,000 miles and a month of driving, I've had no issues whatsoever.

   I know this is a long story but I wanted to throw this out there because I can understand Eric's frustration and confusion with the VCM. But I'm glad we both tackled the issue. Also shame on Honda for sending me a defective oem part and not honoring their return policy.

10. I had a similar problem with the VTEC screen clogging up on my CRV. I ended up changing the oil 3 times within about 100 miles. I think it was because of a lot of dirt collecting around the dipstick tube on the K24 and me clumsily knocking it into the valve cover when checking the oil.

11. Eric, I see now that I’m not the only one that gets stumped with some of these issues. I just spent the last few days chasing a problem. I haven’t found the problem but I will. Press on! 😉👍

12. Looks the the VCM is expecting to have a very clean supply of pressurized engine oil, which makes sense as it is using the oil in a hydraulic (mechanical) spool based servo. Crap in the oil is going to be a problem long term unless whatever is putting junk into the oil is found and fixed.
    I am guessing that this sensitivity to the oil purity is why they were so unreliable as time past and the engine got more miles on it…
    Maybe a few low miles oil changes will make it work a bit longer.
    Thanks for the going through the effort to do the experiments on the device. It's nice to know now how sensitive it is and how critical an accurate oil pressure sensor is to have.
    Cheers,

13. Ничего не понятно, но очень интересно. Титры бы были на русском, было бы великолепно!

14. Boy, Honda charges a lot for that pressure switch!

15. What Bosch model scanner are you using?

16. Slather on white GOOP waterless hand cleaner (not citrus or pumice)
    all over that dash, around vents, knee bolsters, etc. Wait >1 hour,
    wipe off with absorbent paper towels. Grime is lifted out, lanolin
    softens the vinyl, helps stop cracking.

17. Honda Parts should give you platinum status, & free overnight.

18. From my own experiences- I never lock my glove compartments.
    There's way too much temptation for thieves to break the door,
    because it's locked.

19. Eric you stayed with it and got a good result, have a pat on the back, but don't get cocky! I would be interested if the gunk was magnetic, or if its just oil sludge? Seems like the filter is catching all the sludge built up in all the oil passages and around the camshaft, and, furthermore, being clogged is fooling the computer to think the sensor is out of spec?

20. At every oil change, FLUSH engine with kerosene, Folks!

21. Back in the day-
    I can't count how many electric carburetors, Air Injection Reaction (AIR)
    and other tree hugger wet dream gizmos we defeated, unplugged, or removed,
    just to make a Customer's vehicle run again. Now, with OBD II D-rating
    and a computer module running the show, it can still make it undrivable.
    This reminds me of that 8-6-4 nonsense years ago, deactivating half
    of the engine to "save fuel and lower emissions". That pressure sensor costs
    more probably because of more sensitivity and quicker response, but
    $200 is beyond stupid.

22. never buy a part from dorman 80% of the time they don't work properly

23. Good job 👍

24. Bad actuator!

25. I got the same Odyssey and sometimes it’s a pain to get it right. Your persistence fixed this van. Good job brotha

26. Good vid. I think the long term quality fix would be a new OEM VCM.

27. this format of videos is absolutely my favorite. #HaveFunStayDirty

28. Eric if you want to lose weight and feel optimum quit the vegetable oils, the grains, sugars, excess beer drinking and just eat grass fed steaks and organs, especially organs, very important and grass fed again also very important. quit all plant "food". and if you eat other types of animals make sure they all eat what they're supposed to be eating too and that they're not being fed grains like corn, soy. chickens must eat insects. just some friendly advisement for ya and everyone else reading. no one is getting fat and unhealthy because of age, its because of these frankenstein "foods". people do best on clean grass fed meats. youll effortless become fit and healthy with this diet. big agra is stupid and probably malicious. what we should have is grasslands everywhere. barren land waiting for crops to grow just bakes the living things in the soil and the soil becomes less nutritious for anything we try to grow on it. what should be there is grass and something like the millions of bison roaming all over like they used to but instead of just roaming they're being herded by people. that is the healthy way its meant to be and not like we have now. no more stupid corn fields, just bison fields. lets stop voting for our destruction with our money at the grocery store. we're losing soil like this too. watch paul saladino MD yt channel to learn more.

29. My 2005 odyssey with 124K miles has i-VTEC with VCM and I have engine misfire TDC'S on cylinders 1; 2; 3; excessive oil consumption; failed front engine mount 2 times. I changed all the spark plug gaskets and spark plugs. and noticed that sparks plugs from cylinders: 1; 2; 3 were all oil fouled. Spark plugs for 4; 5; 6 showed no oil fouling and normal wear. Compression check showed 195-208 PSI on all cylinders except that cylinder #2 has =185 PSI. I might have bad rings on cylinder #2 ? I installed a VCM tuner. The ECO mode stayed off to allow all 6-cylinders to operate all the time instead of allowing the engine to cycle on/off and run only on 3-cylinders. Fuel economy is poor if i do city stop N go driving but is good while in cruise control @ 65 MPH but I still have oil consumption issues. Based on this video, I might have a clogged oil screen in the oil pressure switch. Will take a look and replace the screen as necessary then remove the VCM tuner just to see if my oil consumption issue goes away. I took my vehicle to Honda dealer in LA; they want 8K to do a ring job. Chime in if you can give me some advice..

Comments are closed.