Hang on for Episode for 2 of the 1974 Chevrolet C20 Square body crew cab project – packed full of adventure, adversity, learning, missing parts, and break downs, plus Kevin Tetz stops by the shop, and we stop by his! Also, Jessica was right.

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31 thoughts on “Ultimate Revival LS Swapped Square Body Crew Cab – Ep. 2 (Break downs & Special Guest)”
  1. FYI the LS engine is a copy of the Ford engines and a lot of people don't realize that. They don't realize it or they want to ignore it. If you look at the Ford raptor engine they make 700 horsepower from the factory and that's a heck of a lot for a pickup truck

  2. A very appreciated thank you to Josh for explaining the Tig process in a way that us morons can understand. Some of the hardest things in life is having to unknow what you think you know so you can know. Wait What? Yes!! Thanks to Josh from me and everyone there who shares their knowledge and offering their time to help others. You are all more appreciated than you may know. Us car guys could never do what we do without everyone's field of knowledge. Thanky you all!

  3. Actually comparing TIG-welding to soldering is problematic. Remember it is NOT soldering. The arch is not a flame. That misconception hindered my learning and if you see this, it will save you a lot of trouble. It is great that you use a pedal from square one. Remember to never wave the tungsten up and down to compensate for anything even tho 93.5 % of the ones you will see, will do it. Just don't. You control the amps with the pedal. And next advice: Make sure you see really really well. Using extra "Trailer Park Boys Bubbles" Cocacola bottles is ok! You need to see like an insect to understand the pool. Because: The dipping cannot be done more briskly/deeper than juuust breaking the surface of the pool in the leading edge of the pool. And when dipping, which can be done at a rate totally according to preference and need, you need to see and later intuitively know, how the material is flowing from the inserted material into the pool. Another misconception is this "dime" idea, but just delete that. A TIG-weld can be completely flat and even with edges smooth without any actual edges and they can look like something more cold welded that most people would understand as dimes, but long story short the diming is an american phenomena and in the European ISO standards that is just not existing as aything to even aim for. Just remember that: The look of the weld should be as even as possible until you weld in your sleep and really know what a colder weld does to the construction (blah blah you get me). Now practivce feeding with the feeding hand or both, so you can weld reversed too, and do that only.. for 30 min a day for a week, before you switch on the welder. I can recommend the version when you kinda hold with the little finger and ring ringer and with the pencilgrip, so that they work like two pencil grips helping each other out. The tungsten tip has to be super clean and perfectly grinded and to not have to put everything down all the time while working, gring like ten tips and put them in front of you. Actually so well grinded it really is impossible to make a proper weld without getting a dirty greyed out surface and uneven flow of electricity to work with, without a proper tungsten grinder, but ANYHOW…. NEVERMIND… More advice::: As the tungsten rods come out of the pack, they can be cut up to smaller pieces and fitted in a shorter "tungsten cap(?)". And keep out of the poisonous fumes.

  4. Prevent the himge bend on your hood push hood back towards windsheld before pushing down on hood it has a safety lock that ingadges when hood is fully lifted and even brand new hinges will cause the hinge crease in hood if you pull down on hood without first pushing hood towards windshield before going down to unlock hinge

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