How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Top 10 Brake Job Tips

1. 3:55 so which is one side on each only?

2. Tip #8 do you have to do all the time everytime you change the brakepads? (Compressing piston?)

3. Tip for turning the rear wheels? Thanks.

4. Tip #1 Turn the steering wheel for better access, "but what about the rear wheels, got anything for that"? I've got a rounded caliper bolt head that refuses to come off.

5. Outo zone5

6. Good tip on cracking the bleeders before compressing the pistons. It's a shame that I just finished my brakes before seeing this tip.

7. Tip number 11 send the car to the pros ha ha

8. Five years on and still the best.

9. where to buy grease and what type of grease to oil the hub surface

10. my top tip is to take it to a pro. just spent $650 on new brakes and an alignment… completely worth it, ill youtube learn then fix some stuff like i rewired my door for power window motors but stopping is sorta important and i aint a mechanic.

11. A brake "ROTOR"? You mean the brake DISC, f.f.k's sakes ……… and a "LUG" nut? You mean a freakin' wheel NUT?
    Jeez …….. you Americans🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄

12. Fantastic video !! Very well explained Chris

13. Mechanics never do anything you did better off do yourself

14. can you expand on the "one man bleeder" you mentioned? All i see is some tubing and a gatorade bottle. What else is there?

15. Thanks man that's some really helpful tips that would normally be overlooked or not thought, thanks

16. Make sure your brake pads come with shims and buy new sliders for your calipers once in a while!

17. Fricken Great Video!!! thank you for taking the time to make it.. Keeps us all moving forward for the better!!!

18. A finishing clean is fine but you're not supposed to get brake cleaner on the pad surface

19. On Honda brake jobs DON'T throw out the little screws. Sure the rotors stay on without them, but you get highway speeds shimmy that ruins the front end and wears out the brakes. Better to replace rusteds (cheap on AMZ) and add a little anti-seize for next removal. There are videos on how to remove stripped screws if you can't get them off. Tip: They AREN'T Phillips screws so don't use a Phillips screwdriver on them. Japanese industrial standard screw takes the driver made for it. The tip is longer and thinner and reaches deeper into the bore of that little screw. In fact many Asian cars use it for body, trim, and brakes so you if you have an Asian car it's probably worth having one in the toolbox. A better fit Phillips is number two because of the narrow point on it. It's not intuitive because the size of the screw head seems to suggest the # 3.

    Garages ALWAYS throw them out, which is why I learned to do my own Honda brakes, with tutorials from Chris Fix.

    From now on I'm going to take the screws out first if I ever need the wheels taken off for front-end work so I know where they are after the repair.

20. Can i use rust remover to get rid the rust on the hub?

21. Awesome, cheers

22. amazing tips

23. thanx .

24. I wish people know how to put copper antiseize on the hub it’s annoying to take the rotor off. The outside part broke off but it’s still stuck on the hub

25. Tip # 10 : mmmmm the cleaner could harm the break pads ? Thank you and great job .

26. Grease the back of the break pad

27. The bleeding one is a really good tip, the rest of them I knew about them, but rarely did them cos of lazyness 😂

28. Good info, thank you.

29. Very helpful. Thank you.

30. is it necessary to bleed the old break fluid?

31. The tip over greasing guide pins apparently doesn't work with all cars, i used to do this, but recently i changed pads on my bmw e93 and i read that the manual says do not grease them.
    Overall helpful video. Can add couple things, as a lot ppl mentioned, pump the brakes after brake job before taking off. Brush good the parts on caliper carrier and caliper where the pad slides against, and use anti squeal paste on the contact areas. Before retracting the cylinder it's good to spray grease underneath the rubber boot. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap before retracting the cylinder, makes it much easier (though pushing out fluid through bleeding valve will do the same). Use copper grease when putting back the wheel, it will prevent the wheel from rust seizing on the rotor, make sure to clean the rotor from any of the grease that accidentally has dripped or sprayed on the pad contact area.

32. 💜💜😎💜💜Chris

33. I married right out of high school & remember the pain when our car needed new brakes & the national chain quoted me $800. I paid the $$$ but quickly learned how to fix my own brakes. That was 44 years ago.

34. Great tips, I like to to put my rubber caps back on the bleeder valves, and clean and paint the dust shields, rub some belt dressing on the break lines, clean out old grease and repack the hubs…👍👍

35. I’ve got to get a special tool to do the rears on my mustang. This weekend job. This past weekend was changing the shocks, struts and lowering springs.

36. It's really important to mention about pressing the brake pedal right before the brake job is finished. Working at the dealer we had one technician get crushed by a vehicle as another technician tried to deliver the car to the owner. The guy got crushed as he was between the tool box and the car. He got paralyzed because of someone forgeting to press the brake pedal. Safety is always first.

37. All good tips , I am old school & we always used to put high temperature grease on the back of the new pads, is this not done now days ?

38. My siblings replace brakes pad and rotor but they haven't screw in tightly and still rattling is safe to drive it or bad.

39. Ok what about that packet of organic grease that comes with the ceramic pads? What exactly are you supposed to lube with it? Turn your steering wheel. Why didn't I think of that? Doh! Great tips Chris!

40. Re: Tip #7: Is using compressed air to blow out break dust on the outside of the piston (and under the boot) not recommended?

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