BUDGET Chevy Big Block Build! – Part 1 of 3 ( Short Block Assembly ) – Car Mod Pros Portal

If the Independence Chevelle is going to recycle tires, she’s gonna need all the torques. I’ll take you along as I build a 460ci Chevy Big Block (454 bored 30 over). I’m trying to save some money, but update some critical parts like forged pistons, high quality bearings, and a Comp Roller Cam.

WARNING: Lots of talking and info headed right towards your ear holes!
-Block Cleaning & Prep
-Camshaft Installation
-Crankshaft & Bearing Installation
-How to Measure Cylinder Bore with Telescoping Bore Gauge
-How to File Piston Rings
-How to Index Piston Rings
-Piston Installation
-How to Install Gear Timing Set (advance/retard timing discussion)
-Harmonic Balancer / Damper Installation

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#chevy #bigblock

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32 thoughts on “BUDGET Chevy Big Block Build! – Part 1 of 3 ( Short Block Assembly )”
  1. We always use mineral spirits and rags and clean it untill there is no more transfer onto the rag. The mineral spirits or u can use paint thinner too it evaporates fast with an air hose and doesnt cause rust to form like soapy water will. It makes it a much faster job because it dries really fast and it I think it cleans it better… It gets more of the dirt out of the pores of the block.

  2. I really like how you thought about lubing the cam and bearings when you put that in. So many times I've seen videos of them being roughly inserted, or thought to myself by the time that cam gets to the last bearing there's going to be very little lube left on it.
    So full marks for common sense and attention to detail!

  3. Derek I just wanted to say thanks to watching nearly all your engine build videos and tinkering in my own garage, I was able to pass an ASE test today, thanks to breaking it down and really understanding how an engine really works. Thank you again

  4. totally agree on stabbing the camshaft in first. plus it allows you to spin it if you're using a flat tappet lifter, and see if the lifters are twirling around–if not, a pass on the lifter bores with a brake cylinder hone might keep one from wiping out a cam lobe with a locked up lifter. the oil drain back holes in the lifter valley looked to have a lot of casting flash remaining. Putting the block on its bellhousing end allows for gravity to help install the camshaft vertically, and as she goes in dry, you can lube it that way and keep it from dripping on the floor.

    As for the issue around the fuel pump, spraying some shaving cream into the holes where you don't want shavings to end up can capture them, and then water will flush it right out again. Also, if you use your cellphone or a calculator to help out with the math on the bore and rings, bag the device in a Ziploc to keep your greasy fingers from ruining it. Meanwhile, when putting piston/rod combos into a block, considering using a fish scale to pull 'em in rather than a hammer to tap 'em in–if any cylinder takes more yank than the others, you've got a ring hanging up and now's the time to fix it. and if you think about using a knock sensor with EFI, skip the gear drive–it causes a vibration, which knock sensors use in a block to pick up detonation and reduce ignition timing.

  5. Great basic rebuild procedure. Lots of people try to rebuild an engine do not follow this procedure. They might as well do an eBay rebuild at that point. I noticed you touched the bearing surface. Have you ever had issues with that? I was told that our oils have acid in them and can etch the bearing surfaces. I thought they were joking until I rebuilt a 3100m generous motors engine and I saw a rod bearing with a fingerprint etched in the backside of it. It was not the reason for failure but made me think about it.

  6. After torquing all the cap bolts/fasteners, use a torque wrench and rotate the assembly at least halfway around, and ensure it's under 45 ft/lbs of 'friction'. My first ever engine build, my brother who'd not very handy mentioned that to me. I figured it wouldn't hurt, and did it. I'm glad I DID! I put a cap back on the wrong way after plastigage check. I spotted which cap was flipped, fixed it. And found the rotating resistance was about 32 ft/lbs (no heads installed). Had I not checked the rotating drag, I'd be very disappointed!

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