By carmodpros

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20 thoughts on “Removing EVERYTHING Off Our Tesla Plaid To see If It’s Faster”
  1. update, I did one more 0-60 today and first rip it did a 2.31 and I haven't charged it since this video, didn't change a thing. 1.58 60ft and coasted a 6.20x @105 in the 1/8th on a completely normal road in Mexico

  2. USE A PAINT MARKER AND MARK ANY MOUNTING OR ADJUSTMENT BOLTS/TABS ON THE CAMERA ARRAYS. They are usually marked by the manufacturer who calibrated them. Still do your own to be safe.

    They must be calibrated to function correctly. At Tesla they set the vehicle and use reference points that must be in spec. There are usually turn dial adjustments for each axis. make sure they are marked.

  3. That fiber optic cable goes up to a set of cameras on the "B" pillars. There is also a set at the top of the front windshield. Be careful removing them when or if you do as their positions are calibrated. At Tesla they put the wheels on marks and plug into the camera feed and line up to reference points on screen. If the calibration is off it will upset the automated systems on board.

    My advice is anytime your removing cameras use a paint marker and put marks on any mounting bolts/tabs or adjustments.

  4. Warmer Tyres get´s you the 2.3 in the End with Cheetah, i guess. It would be interesting to complete disable the TC and then warm the Tyres and go for it like the Veyron crazy launch

  5. If you think about the missing section of frame rail and sheet metal in the trunk aswell as the the weight is factored with fully charged batteries. Then 4180 is probably spot on.

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