In todays episode we get the engine in place, and start building mounts.
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Music:
Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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By carmodpros

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23 thoughts on “Mounting a V10 In a 240z Ain’t Easy, But We’re Doin It!”
  1. Hey man, I have a question. I want to get into building cars and engine performance.

    My question is, What do you have to do to gain the knowledge to do these things? Do I need to go to school? Thanks.

  2. "now more than ever I think it's important to learn new skills outside of a classroom" it's almost like he knew I'd be watching this in 2020!😐

  3. modify the frame. You cannot mount an engine like that, esecially when you created the problem with your chassis. Fix the chassis.

  4. It really pains me to see those frame rails going through the cab, and hear him talk of the cab cutout as if it's the deviation from the main ladder form of the frme, when the floor level IS the main level of the ladder and front and rear kickups are raised generally. The floor level being set would allow for more relaxed engine mounting.

  5. Extend the crank pulley nose and put a new pulley on it to drive the alternator. An old trick is to mount the alternator behind the transmission and drive it off the prop shaft. It only gives an output if the car is moving at a good speed but it does work.

  6. Rack needs to be level with outer tie ends at sitting level and arm on mounts use speedway round mounts easy to set up I have them in 31 ford

  7. Just so you know: a V10 isn't an inherently balanced engine, and they do use the engine as part of the structure in Formula One, but when they did it with the Ferrari F50, people say it made the ride unbearable.

  8. I wonder if you bulge the frame rails out instead of straight rails. Its more fab work. It potentially gives you upto 2 inch more on both sides. You might have to bulge the fenders too giving wider track.
    Please use the rubber or oil engine mounts. You will stress damage and crack the mount on the engine or the frame. Not good.

  9. Jesus what is with these comments? Yes you can do solid motor mounts I've seen it done for years. One of my friends has a late 80's Camaro making 800hp with solid motor mounts and full cage ect. No cracks after years and years. The only time I've heard of frames or cages cracking is chromoly ones that are minimum thickness for weight savings. Also you can have the engine off center I know for a fact GM has been doing for years. Fucking armchair engineers I swear.

  10. One inch really is no problem.
    You can probably make up for that by driving alone, choosing where the battery goes and fine-tuning the suspension (as far as airbags can be fine tuned).

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