In todays episode we’re finishing up the bumper repair as well as prepping repainting the rear spoiler.

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Music:
Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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By carmodpros

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50 thoughts on “Lotus Evora – Fixing Things & Painting Stuff”
  1. you're bouncing light off of it to see the way Venus when you take it in the daylight there's all kinds of light bouncing off of it people will knowother than that you're new to painting and only had a $10 spray gun you didn't do half bad at all

  2. @Chris = Running Paint "Cloth Dip in acetone" Quick Light Whip but that Cloth Needs to Be Dipped. Acetone Dry's up a Crap ton Faster that Thinners also Dissipates Faster than Thinners. also If you want to see your Pin holes Much Better on Cameras and For your Self after Primer use a Mist of Black Coating.. then Sand it Till the Black Miss Coat is Gone.. Why Better to See Chips and Pin wholes.. just My two Cents use it dont Use it..

  3. Amen on the Rustoleum primer being shit. just ruined all the prep and repairs on two alloy wheels with their 2 in 1 primer. Didn't spray evenly, came out very dry sometimes, wet others, and very hard to control. I ended up with a dry, rough, and loose/crumbly finish on the wheels. I waited 3 hours for it to dry, then tried sanding the trouble areas smooth which worked a little, but it was still rough. When I tried to wipe it down to remove the dust with some alcohol, the primer went all gummy. I fixed it as best I could, then tried to spray some rustoleum wheel paint on it. It reacted with the primer and bubbled up, once again ruining all my work. I've used the wheel paint before with Dupli-color primer and had no problems. If I'm using rattle-can primer, I"m sticking with Dupli-color from now on.

  4. hi Chris im in a car painting school and the method we use is we always lay a base coat which is black all over the panel and after it dries over 24 hours we use 600grit sandpaper to get it as smooth as possible for paint and then you are just good to go spray it the result will be awesome dude but i know yes you repaired the bumper but if i were to sand down filler i would of used 180 grit sandpaper to get the best finnish of the filler also good for the end result otherwise keep up the good work just trying to give you some advice 🙂

  5. Best spray can primer and also clear I've found is Spray Max 2k. It's 2 part in a can and sprays extremely well. It's not super cheap though, and at least here I can't find it locally.

  6. looks god! just a tip, try using a glaze (thin filler) over the first coat of body filler. it does not leave an edge and minimal pin holes. it usually lets you get away with one coat of filler and one glaze coat.

  7. Hey Chris! Love the channel! I noticed how you used the primer to check on your panel straightness. I’m not sure if you know about it but there’s a product that’s a lot easier to use its called a dry guide coat which 3m makes you just apply some of that and you be able to see where there pinholes are and where it’s not straight

  8. Again, the proof of using good products. They might be more expensive but they work better and you should not end up in this mess you just worked through. Feel for you bro

  9. Make sure to keep your stuff locked up tight man. I remember hearing about MCM having a bunch of their stuff stolen once they started getting more subscribers like you.

  10. Quick little tip on the runs in the paint. Use tape. Get yourself some 1 3/4” or 2” tape and use the sticky side to basically flatten the run. Make sure the paint is tacked up first though.

  11. i think you're using too much pressure in your high volume LOW PRESSURE gun….. i don't know if its just the time-lapse messing with my eyes, but it looks like you've got too much airborne over spray. the gun should be laying down little droplets, not a 'dusting', especially with single stage paint.

    This is creative criticism coming from a place of love, i want to see you do well and lay down some kick-ass paint jobs. 🙂

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