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In this episode we install a dual battery setup on the FJ for dedicated power to accessories without draining the main car battery. After that we install a remote controlled circuit to turn the light bars on and off remotely.

Link to the remote controlled circuit kit – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVNE9MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Music:
02:30 – Welcome To Ibiza 1 – Andreas Ericson
07:16 – My Perfect Beat 3 – Andreas Ericson
14:04 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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35 thoughts on “FJ Cruiser Build Pt 9 – Remote Controlled Lighting & DIY Dual Battery Setup”
  1. Dude It's Really Half/Ass Not To Paint That Blue All Over . Even If You Use Some Flat Black Spray Paint. Otherwise Great Job Brother.

  2. The underside of the bonnet was annoying me, but so much better now you’ve sprayed it black. I know you’re not aiming for perfection with this build, but it would look nicer if you covered all the blue bits over time for a better all round look.

  3. I have to agree with Tori L. about painting your door jambs. Also the hood underside looks tacky just partially painted. Hope you already fixed that , otherwise the FJ looks sick, man!

  4. Your builds are pretty cool but you half ass them, leaving those parts blue was the first thing that bugged me but then you added the light bars way too high and finally you added a second battery all wrong. The Toyota charging system won’t charge that battery to full capacity without adding a dc to dc charger, (it will charge it just not to full capacity and most might not notice this) and then the manual disconnect was icing on the cake. You have great ambition I just think you’re lacking knowledge and vision.

  5. I ain't much on the bar light operation. I know it's a budget build, but they sell factory interior color light switch panels that mount on the driver's side A-pillar that will allow you to operate each bar separately. A little wire, a couple relays, in-line fuses, bada-bing, bada-boom, individually controlled light bars. I don't think you'll like that "both on, both off" mode of operation.

  6. I wonder how this held up over time for him. I have never seen anyone run a dual battery setup without an isolator like he is doing here. That big ass Solenoid should be replaced with an Isolator and 2 relays for the Light Bars.

  7. Another option to welding would be rivets or using nuts and bolts. A little more involved in the planning process but still solid enough to hold a battery. Also, your a super smart guy and thanks for the uploads.

  8. Man, it's a good thing you hooked that extra battery up to your LED light bar instead of that winch! That bar has to pull way more power.

  9. nice job only thing that I dont like is that disconnect switch ,in the past I had one and after unscrewing it the switch remained connected enough that I was able to start the car. I bought one to disconnect my battery when servicing stuff on the engine . I would recommend a shut off switch than that twist knob switch. other thing I wish I asked this guy I saw his FJ at wall mart and he had a LED light bar that served as a sun visor on his wind shield. I wish I left a note asking where he got this, have you seen these any where?

  10. You should hook the front light bar to your cars main beams and the back light bar to that silly remote

  11. Hey bud love your videos! Why wouldn't you just wire it up so that when the truck is running it gives charge to the battery? Wire the solenoid up to ignition or something? Why mess with a remote? Just curious! The fj is looking great! I'm building quarters for the camper of my Tacoma. Looking at doing the same stuff!

  12. Could you place a relay between the two batteries and wire it to something that has power on it only when the engine is running so it charges when the alternator is supplying power.

  13. Check out CH4x4 toyota buttons. I have them for my FJ. They're cheap and work great. They mount in the center console switch blanks

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