In this episode we figure out why the car was running rich, and fix it.
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Music:
05:38 – TARI & Yix – Bliss
31:52 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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By carmodpros

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34 thoughts on “2JZ BRZ Pt 35 – FIXED THE CAR!”
  1. Hey Chris did you ever figure out the ventury fuel system ? did making the return hole bigger works ? im going 1jz vvti swap i might bump in to the same issue. >.<

  2. It all depends on the wideband you using the best way to go is aem wideband thst is calibrated already some afr you have to tune to calibrate the engine.

  3. I think those regulators are like oxy/fuel welding/torch regulators. You start with the screw almost all of the way out and then pressurize the system. Then you screw it in, raising the pressure with each turn. If you charge the system with the screw almost all the way out, you get a full range of adjustability.

  4. It looked good to me, you won't know for sure until you can go wide open throttle. When you do get it together enough to go wide open throttle, go slow and make sure you aren't consistently over about 18ish. Peaks and valleys are very normal. If it continues to rise as more throttle is applied consistently you are running out of injectors. But for this episode it looked good to me.

  5. The turbo doesn't have to be completely straight, you can clock the CHRA, you can talk with Garrett to verify the maximum amount, that should give you some room to get your oil drain line away from header, also most all vehicles I have worked with, even other Toyotas say 43.5psi fuel pressure with the vacuum line off, also you were not much into boost, so the fuel pressure regulator won't increase to much

  6. Your manifold can get up to 900 degree celcius, id defonately run it as far from the manifold as possible, let alone running it through it 😛

  7. Set base pressure to 43psi, factory requirements went out the window when you tossed a giant turbo on it. Psi is a relative term, just because you're at the same boost level doesn't mean you're moving the same amount of air. You're light throttle is perfectly acceptable, you only should start to see it richen up when you're in boost. Any turbo car I tune, I set base pressure from 40-55psi depending on the setup. Good luck and keep it up!

  8. you aren't hitting boost because your single turbo is more laggy than the stock twins. Once you actually hit boost(more rpms & load) your afrs will richen out

  9. 14.7 is normal for light throttle and cruising. On an N/A vehicle Heavy and WOT throttle would be around 12.5-13.0 depending on the platform.
    On a boosted platform it should be near 12.0 during the transition into boost and usually 11.5 at WOT. Again every application will be different and vary a few 1/10ths but nothing crazy. Also staring at a wideband will make your head spin during transient throttle swings. Its ok to see a little rich or a little lean, by a little I mean .5 difference as long as it settles out quickly it's fine but it can be refined with a tune (and it should be).

  10. 14.7 is fine up to -0 HG of vaccum. Once you start seeing 5/10 psi of boost thats when your AFRs are going to want to be in the 13.0/12.5 range and then 15/20psi of boost WOT you want like 11.0/11.5 AFR

  11. Chris, instead of going through the nightmare of converting it to hard lines, why won't you just heatwrap the manifold and the turbo ?

  12. Manual box tunable ecu and tune it after everything's Ben tidied up . Or your just going to keep breaking stuff.

  13. Part throttle should be 14-15 and full throttle should be low 12's… that's what it has been tuned at on my charged s2000…

  14. You aren't making any boost. Use the front feed port for oil supply. Clock your turbo a little bit more, there's a range you can get away with for the degree it's clocked. It's running super lean because it was tuned super rich, it needs to be retuned. Talk to your tuner for fuel pressure tuning as it will need to be set prior to adjustments. Don't run rubber pipers near your manifold.

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