2JZ BRZ Pt 32 – IT’S ALIVE!!

1. Old thread and video but you T'ed off the vacuum line going to the Fuel pressure regulator in earlier video… I figured this would be a bad idea but beating a dead horse now

2. I know this series is way old, and you've probably already came to this on your own. But running 450lph pump through the stock FPR will always cause a rich condition, it gets over ran. You have to go with a AFPR, and that's one eBay part I've had good luck with, $35. But I really appreciate how you share the good, bad, and the ugly with us. I always learn something, so thanks…

3. Thanks for your vids, many people have misconceptions that you can just swap in Godzilla and just go. Not the case

4. wow your air intake us actually siting right next to the turbo? isnt that like just blowing hot air in the car?

5. I heard this in a few of your videos and I'm in deep need of understanding so what is ground as in a good ground connection

6. I love these episodes it's so refreshing to see a normal guy mess around and mess up, this would be so much like me if I had the space to be able to do build like this. Wiring not working, my fault, whatever. Keep up the good work!

7. This channel is about how not to do stuff and most of the time that is more important than doing it right first time. Have you guys not figured it out yet? This is a huge learning experience and entertaining af. Mega respect to Chris for keeping the fight alive, most people would've given up long time ago.

8. The reason why it worked is digital logic has a very high tolerance for noise and floating grounds. Take a 5v signal for example. Some digital circuits may count anything above 2.5V as a 1, and anything below as a 0. If the ground is floating, say at 1V in reference to the rest of the car, you could still get a zero. It was intermittent because occasionally that floating ground would get above the threshold for determining 0 and 1.

9. Chris, you know you're supposed to be rich under boost right? 10.5 – 11.5 is typical for best power in a boosted motor

10. Running rich, due to running with no cat?

11. Ayyyyy!! Nice dude!

12. In general, the fact that it goes rich on boost does not necessarily means that something is wrong. Normally an engine doesn't run stoichiometric at every rpm and load point. But if the AF-ratio in your case indicates TOO rich, or not, I can't tell, my knowledge/experience doesn't extend that far.

13. Good luck bud! Makes me feel like I can do anything

14. Upgrade to a Haltech ECU and pay for a flight from OZ so Tuning Fork from MCM can tune it for you

15. Playback speed 0.25x = the drunk b is for build lmao

16. Lol is maf related to science

17. I feel like this guy is very knowledgeable, but he cuts corners to save time/money and it ends up biting him in the ass EVERY TIME and it costs him 10x more time/money.

18. More of those phantom sage sound clips 🙄

19. Are u going to put a hood on that thing

20. I think it's safe to say you should be properly fixing the harness to look nice because this is the shit you get when you bundle it up. Please tidy the wiring

21. My S13 CA18DET stock fpr was not compatible with the increased flow rate of the upgraded 255lph fuel pump fitted by the previous owner, as a result the fuel pressure was a whole 4 psi over what it should have been, and as a result it ran like shit!

    This will probably be why everyone moans how unreliable S13s are, immediately after making fundamental changes to a primative engine control system. And the folk lore on the forums speaks of people many moons ago "doing it like this for ages, and haven't had a problem".

22. I hope all the kids that think that '2JZ swap everything is life', watch this series and see how much work it really is – before they spend their last money on an engine and shell…

23. I will not be downloading mercari

24. Does it maybe need 2 o2 sensors? its one before the CAT and one after? If you didn't map one of them out, the second one is reading basically garbage (if you don't have a cat). That could be a fault.

25. I think the rich afr at wot is normal because you turned the boost up past 1 bar. The ecu will throw fuel at it . I had two Aristo V300s just like that. At stock boost the afrs were good throughout the rev range. But with the boost up to 14.7-17psi i get mostly 10ish – 11.8

26. I don't mind the trouble shooting but this is the whole video for every video. It's like an old Cadillac.

27. Chris…..stop wiring. Please just stop trying to wire, I assumed you were going to clean that wiring up when I saw it. Look at the factory loom's and try to completely copy the same techniques, particularly if they are near heat. In no case have I ever been able to wiggle a wire and throw an earth or create resistance.

28. at least you not running lean

29. And an r154

30. Dealing with AFR shit in my car too, pain in the ass for sure.

31. "Damn I wish I'd known that earlier". My thoughts damn you should have had a much more neat engine bay then you might have not run into so many problems and if there would have been any problems then you'd be able to spot them sooner. Just saying. I enjoy watching your content. Not hating or anything.

32. B is for Broke

33. Shit wiring job

34. Fucking youtube unsubd me wtf

35. R is for rebuild

36. #BIsForBoat

37. Yeah man that's the 2JZ igniter that needs to be put to chassis ground Bolted to it directly

38. You're going to have to start soldering and shrinkwrapping all of your connections man that's how I do everything up the right way to do it then you don't have weird Interment wiring issues like that

39. Making a good case to do things right the first time.

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