SR20DET – Rebuild, Replace, or Destroy?

1. 2jz

2. It needs a bore and oversized pistons.

3. Man do the Sr with Garrett gt2860rs that will give you the low end power and you would keep the same power

4. Your compression is not bad compared to what it was when you rebuilt it. It could just be your valve guides going bad. Hitting rev limiter as much as that motor does will cause that

5. Voodoo swap 🙂

6. I Love To 2 JZ ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️😍😍😍😍😎😍💕😎😍

7. PUT RB IN THE THING LIKE 25 OR 26

8. Where the hell is the 2jz?

9. Heres an idea if you can find a block build a ca18

10. 1uz

11. u have are 2jz already are lie

12. u have are 2jz already are lie

13. rb25 or 26 brother

14. e85 2jz

15. 2jz swap bro

16. when it breaks
    buy a 2jz

17. I think you should do 2J smaller turbo that way you and your wife will be jz couple 😉

18. Adam i think a stock 2j will be more reliable in the cream hatch you like more seat time like look at constinsine's rb isint reliable it would only reduce your seatime and trevor is a good example his 2j with a big turbo would make u happy sound cool and be a good car for seatime

19. RB swap… This is a nissan car…

20. V8

21. Get a 2jz-GE then a cx racing turbo kit and show to do a proper budget engine build

22. Do a RB25 swap

23. just keep the sr.. it is too easy too put a jz like everbody else e have a lot of power (even if you dont seek horsepower)
    and you like car Setup with the sr so

24. Aren't turbo builds intended to have lower compression from the start so you can have all the boost without the high chance of Detonation?

25. 2jz or LS

26. Toyota v8 swap mate she'll be right.

27. "as i tap the bumper and it explodes into a million pieces" well…. it is a nissan

28. I'm late , currently on a catch up binge! but my opinion is do what ever swap you decide on (1j or 2j seems like the go) BUT SWAP THE SR INTO THE MIATA FOR HER!

29. putting a jz tou may lose the weight distribution since 6 cil 3,0 iron is much heavier than 4cil 2,0 aluminum, to help to get it back you can transfer everyrhing that you can from engine bay to trunk, you also will get a lot of room to cooling system to jz.
    if you like the identity of the car, lightweight just rebuild, retune it and put e85 tu a little bit more power.
    (i wold love to see a rb swap but i know how hard is to maintain an rb running on US)

30. If not an LS… then a clean VK56 swap!

31. I would just change the valve cover gasket (and maybe valve stem seals?) to prevent the oil leaks, since the compression seems alright, considering it was 120-ish across the board after the rebuild. I personally don't like SR or CA engines, but since you have gotten used to it and it's getting close to being reliable and weight distribution is actually a thing, I'd say keep it going that way. Low power makes a better driver and you'll have more variety (1J S13, 3.4L 2J S15 and an SR S13) in your garage. I have also thought it to be a good idea to keep the SR from the S15 since you got it. Even if it doesn't drop straight in (I'm a Euro guy, sorry 😃) it would be either a good parts engine or you could make it fit, and younger iron (or well, aluminium) is always better than older.

32. maybe swap to jz1

33. that first entry was maad bruf

34. I like the 2jz idea as down the road it might be less problems?

35. 2jz it…switch it up for the cream s13

36. Use your stock S15 engine

37. I just did this math/test last night HAHAHAHA!! Awesome

    You maaaaaybe drawing the wrong conclusions from that test.

    Oil added to the combustion chamber is always gonna raise the pressure on the test. It's a liquid and therefore does not compress. Head CC volume is measure in cc's or cubic centimeter or cm^3….a teaspoon of oil is 4.92 mL or cm^3 or cc's. The head on a SR20 is 46.1 cm^3. That's 10% of the head volume you have removed by adding a liquid. That oil trick only really works if your test psi's are sub 60 psi or something real low. Then the oil will tell you if its the valves or the rings….and jacks the pressure up way more when its the rings.

    The fact that your psi's got raised by ~10-15% I would say that it's the ~5 cm^3 (or whatever amount) of oil you added.

    The variance between cylinders has to do with the variance in combustion chamber volume between cylinders. How many guys die grind out the CC in the head to match CC volumes between cylinders? I sure didn't on my last build.

    Your compression test (done after the motor is warmed up of course) is based on your volumetric efficiency at cranking RPM….and then using science (properties of air/gas) you can find exactly what your compression test numbers should be.|

    Basically you have static CR and dynamic CR. Dynamic is how good it is at inhaling air based on the VE.

    For example:
    Press@TDC = ambient pressure (baro) x volumetric efficiency x static CR^(1.3[corrected air-gasoline specific heat factor])

    For 10:1 CR & 60% VE assuming were at sea level, then 1 bar x 0.6 x 19.952 = 175 psia – 14.7 psia = {{{{ 161 psig TEST PRESSURE psi gauge expected reading }}}}

    – i'm 8.5:1 pistons
    – current baro: 14.94 psi
    I calculated my pressure should be: 130 PSIG…..i ran the test last night and i got 130-135 psi on my 800 km old motor. Still breaking in and it was only slightly warmed up but that's damn close. So I know I am sealed up tight still.

    So you're in Orlando (via FB) and the pressure there is ~14.74 psi and from your build you are running 9:1 pistons sooo….

    Your test pressure shoulda been: [[[ 139 psig ]]] but you got ~110-120.

    Something is leaking OR maybe your getting robbed of VE….like a valve is leaking a bit or the rings are going. To know for sure but you need a leak down test to find out what…the oil trick is just that…a trick.

38. RB26dett swap !!!

39. LS It  Please..

40. Rb swap, keep it nissan

41. How about running the sr to IT breaks, then swaping in a 2.3 Ford EcoBoost engine?

42. I would say rb but you have a couple of jzs so sock is. Keep it similar to what you know.

43. RB26!!

44. Put a jz in it

45. V8!!

46. beat it

47. aka 50 shades of primer lol

48. I've got a 1.5jzgte and it's not as hard as you think…only main consideration is the head and whether or not you do a simple oil feed mod so that the feed from the 1j head will match the 2j block. I opted for the mod but have seen alot of ppl on forums who haven't and haven't run into issues but I did for my own peace of mind…a naturally aspirated 1.5jz would be unique with predictable and reliable power.

49. Rb26 please

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