I’ve been planning this build for over a year now and the time has finally come to start working on it. This video provides the general outline of what I plan to do to the truck. Stay tuned for future episodes that will start to drop in the coming weeks.

Episode 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Q3A6l7gNHM

Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com

Camera: Brian Kast

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Thanks for watching!

Some of the Parts I’m Planning to use.

Drum to Disc Conversion: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a126-2/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500

Front Rotor Brake Pad Upgrade: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a2351003/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500

Steel Braided Brake Lines: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-672340

New Differential: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aub-542022/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500

Diff Cover: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-8510300nl

Rear Dampers (subject to change): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-016988/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500

Front Dampers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-016971/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500

Lowering Kit (Phase 1): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mmc-33134/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500/submodel/silverado

Suspension Bushing Kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-18107g/overview/make/gmc/model/c1500

Tire Stickers: https://www.tirestickers.com

Monster Transmission: https://www.monstertransmission.com

Related Videos

ETCG Gets a Truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cblScHKnHc&t=33s

Fun Facts About Dads Truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMw1iNI1ypA

What Should I do With Dads Truck?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmK91jdOwcc&t=11s

Fixing a Spongy Brake Pedal Chevy Truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcV6Rd4MiZ4&t=37s

Dad Visits the Shop April 2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK9IrSmGbOM

The #FairmontProject Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

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Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.

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43 thoughts on “#ETCGDadsTruck Build Introduction (Episode 1)”
  1. I got a 1998 Chevy k1500 it’s got the 350 vortex I like to know if I can do the same thing you are doing to your truck I like to get a new dash speed gauge and so on thane out the electronica brain can I do that plus is it costing money lots of money

  2. I'm doing a similar build right now with a 93 and the Terminator X system and wanted to know do you have any still or vids pf how you ran the wiring harnesses on your build?

  3. The moment he said he’s leaving it auto I died 😞😩😂

  4. Hey eric first off i love your work you helped me a lot with my hondas. my question is i brought a front differential for a 2001 gmc yukon denali 4wd all the time.the part that was shipped to me has an axel actulator for 4×4. the one in the truck do not have one. do it matter? if you can i would love to see a video…..stay dirty

  5. Eric sure could use your help. Got a 99 honda crv 2.0, 4 cyl. If it sits overnight, the next morning it wil start, and idle until you put it in gear. Then it smothers down and dies, It is then hard to start unless you give it a little fuel.
    after it warms up it runs fine all day, until you leave it sitting 5-6 hours somewhere. Have cheked coil, auto idle air vale, the air vale on this one has two coolant lines going through it to keep from icing. I have even put that in hot water to see if the little thermostat is working the valve, which it is. My hair is nearly gone. This is my granddaughters car and she works late at night. Dont want her broke down in a parking lot. HELP!!!!! OH, have cleaned the throttle body as per your instructions. Ideas?????

  6. Sorry, I was interested in the built right up to where you said "I'm going to lower this truck". So good luck have fun. And good bye for now.

  7. Cool. I recently saw online they have markers in different colors that are specifically for tires. So you can color in the lettering on your tires with side markers, FYI

  8. My Dad had the same truck from new until he died. He didn't take as good of care of it as your dad. I have often wished that I kept that truck and restored it. Thank you for letting me watch Eric.

    Dwayne

  9. The early GMT-400's with that trans (4L60) came with a 2.73 rear gear. The 3.73 ought to be way more fun. You're building a twin to my black '88 C1500 and I guarantee it WILL look sick.

  10. I'm gonna have to say your shocks in that truck looks so rusted they are ready to fall apart. I'm guessing you live somewhere where snow exists.

  11. So, you mentioned an attempt at joining the Power Tour this June 8 – 14. Did you make it and are we in for a video of your fun w/ your Dad?

  12. Thank you for doing this series! I have a 1990 sidestep K1500 that is currently garaged and awaiting a major rebuild. Great ideas for the project!

  13. Plan addition suggestion: Since you have the engine out, drop the trans and do a 700R4 overhaul including a TransGo shift kit and update the booster valve and replace the accumulator vales.

  14. I got my dad’s 1998 Chevy C1500 last July shortly before he passed away. I wish I could say that his was in as great of shape as yours but the interior definitely needed some love.
    I currently have the interior apart and getting ready to install a new carpet and clean the seats as best as possible. Had a water leak on the drivers side coming from the panels under the fender where the panel adhesive had failed enough to allow water in. Drivers side floorpan had to have rust cut out and patched. Also having some drivers side can and bed damage repaired at the moment.
    Has the 350 also and is very strong. Has less than 100k miles on it. Starts right up, smooth and enough power.
    I would love to do the drum to disc conversion on it someday but my wife wants it finished so we can use it now. Good luck to everything you’re doing to your dad’s truck!!

  15. Who hit the garage door? Haha sounds like you are going to have more money in that 350 than a junkyard LS swap would cost, and make less power. It doesn't really make sense to build a SBC anymore

  16. The tail on the 1999-2007 GMT800 Master Cylinder is larger than the GMT400 Masters so you'll need to update the booster to accommodate it. The 2500HD T800 trucks have Hydroboost and it can probably be installed easier then a T800 Vacuum booster in the T400 chassis It'll still need the pushrod length massaged and the T400 brake booster bracket installed. The plus is it's likely pretty cheap and it's a lot smaller than the vacuum booster can.
    I'd try just removing the RWAL ABS from the hydraulics before you go to the T800 master. The ABS accumulators hold air and that makes the pedal spongy… and the RWAL ABS is a somewhat less than stellar performer. You can command an ABS power bleed using a Tech 2 or Snap On scan tool on the 1992-2007 T400 & T800 trucks and it does fix the spongy pedal.
    If you have a Tech1 1A or Mastertech MTS3100 with the 88-92 RWAL Truck cartridge and Bosch ABS ALDL port adapter you could try an ABS power bleed. The Tech 1-ish tools will talk to all of the 81-94 GM rigs but they are stupid expensive… especially if the only reason to buy them is to keep the RWAL Brakes. You may be able to do a power bleed on the 88-91 T400 RWAL with a Snap ON MT2500 and a Tech 1 Bosch ABS ALDL port adapter but I'm not positive.

  17. honestly I would leave it Stock as much stock as possible. I have a 94 k2500 just like this with 350 and a 5 speed. it's tough and pulls fine. so whatever you wanna do I would leave it, don't lower it, don't change the rear drums to disc. don't even touch the engine. just keep up with maintenance and it'll be fine

  18. If you really want to be smart and budget minded you would still go LS. Just go used truck engine instead of car stuff. A stock 6.2 or even 6.0 with a cam, headers and maybe heads would be sufficient, reliable and affordable. Use the stock ecu, get a standalone harness and get it tuned. Should easily make 350+ whp. You will spend ALOT more building that 350, adding MPFI and especially on a stroker. Likely be less reliable too considering you will be using a bunch of aftermarket parts.
    With the LS you can stick with basically all oem parts besides maybe cam, valve springs and injectors, or if you really want cylinder heads. Plus you will have a stronger and better engine in every way.
    You can always add that caddy LSA blower later.

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