How to clean a throttle body and Idle air control valve (iac). This shows you how to fix a high idle, low idle, and or rough idle. Most modern cars have an idler air control valve (IAC) that can get gummed-up and you have to clean it.
Be aware that unplugging the IAC can trigger a check engine light (use a scanner or disconnect the battery to get rid of the light). If you have any questions feel free to ask below. If this helps also let me know (I like to know when I help someone out!).
Codes that can be triggered are, P0401, P0505, and P0507

IAC Cleaner: http://amzn.to/2iWJDma

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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.

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23 thoughts on “How To Fix A Car That Idles Poorly (Clean the IAC)”
  1. I have a story, which is a puzzle for me and probably for many who reads it. I went to Firestone on
    Northway Hwy to do alignment and State Inspection. The car is old, and basically it is my toy-car
    to practice on auto DIY projects. 2001 Saturn SL2. The car was running maybe not the best, but
    normally, my main concern was alignment, bcs I did a lot of suspension work on the front, and my
    husband observing how I move parts around came to the conclusion that the car will never run
    again. At Firestone they couldn't do alignment, bcs they needed a special tool (for the rear), which
    they didn't have and advised me to go to a dealership to do a proper alignment. To my amazement
    they said that the current alignment on the car was pretty good, gave me a print, which proved it. I
    assume, the alignment was good, bcs I counted turns on outer tie rod very accurately. They said
    that the battery didn't pass the test (car was sitting for a long time), but passed the safety standards,
    so I need to make 50 mi on it and come back. I went back home, and on the way I noticed that the car
    started to shake slightly at one red light. When I came home the engine was shaking like crazy. I
    switched it off, took Actron, but before diagnostic decided to start it again and listen once more what
    the engine does. The car started vibrating vigorously, the arrow of the rpm jumping from 400 to
    1200 and back all the time, then after a loud sound ("bum!") died. There was a small puddle on the
    ground from the transmission fluid. Actron gave P0404 code, which is emission code, so I decided to
    clean a Throttle Body, what I did, but there were not much changes. Next morning car died again
    on idling, when I warmed it up. Now in addition to P0404 it gave a code for the Powertrain Module
    (Engine computer). I started the car again and without any waiting in Idle went to the Toyota
    dealership, they did some work on alignment, but also didn't have that tool for the rear of the car,
    and advised one GM dealer. I suspected bad fuel, so I added like 1/2 tank to make it full, poured
    good engine cleaner, car started to run a bit better, but still vibrating at stops (though at 800 rpm
    already). No more leak fm transmission. In that condition (car was still vibrating on lights) I went
    to Jupiter Chevrolet Dealership, where they did the front alignment perfectly, some rear, but not
    toe (again no tool for that job on the rear). When I started to drive I immediately noticed that the
    car runs perfectly well, no rattling, vibration, you could sit like hour in Idle, it runs very smoothly
    and good. I went back to thank and ask, what it was, what did he do, but the mechanic gone for the
    day. So my question for the puzzle is: what can be done to the car that it develops a vibration on
    lights, and see how, not immediately after I left the Firestone, but after about 5 miles of driving?
    And what the mechanic at Chevrolet Dealership did, that the car runs with no problems now, very
    smoothly and quietly. Later he said that nothing was done besides an alignment, and he never
    opened a hood. Thank you for the great film.

  2. It feels so weird watching your old videos like in your new ones you have so much energy, man im used to your heyy guyss its chris fix here 😂😂

  3. I have a 2003 Ford explorer sport that sometimes cranks over starts and then stalls unless I give press there gas pedal. I replaced the air filter, but still persist. Could this be an issue with the IAC valve and would cleaning help, or should I just replace it?

  4. So why did they have to put it all the way to the back by the firewall on the 02 f150 5.4 smh an it’s like the 3rd time fixing this issue gettin real annoying 🙁

  5. ChrisFix "fixed" ChrisFix. while the repair was the same the difference in editing and more importantly Chris himself seems more confident and seems to have more fun than this video. I used this video to clean my '04 Stratus IAC a few years back and it worked great.

  6. I might need to do this on a 2001 maxima, got p0505 once. Found the air intake tube from air box severely cracked, replaced it. It’s been better.
    Code never came back but once in awhile gets a strange idle surging. Found too much tension on. Wire connector to IAC and the wire harness wasn’t put back in place allowing too much tension. Gave it some slack and put the wire harness back in place with its connectors. So far so good.

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