Water Pump Fail – EricTheCarGuy
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
This one is a continuation of the cooling system overheat video, here is a link
Many of you pointed out that the water pump could be at fault and it just so happened I got this car in a few weeks ago with this exact problem.
I hope you have as much fun watching these as I have making them.
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I have a Wrangler, no heat. Flushed core still nothing. Tried bleeding, but noticed when was trying to burp it that, did look like was getting good circulation. Any thoughts
Man most difficult issue I ever had was an over heating issue, plus a loss of coolant with my dodge, I almost couldn’t for the life of me to figure out what was causing my issue I finally ended up figuring out it was a short like palm size bypass hose on top of the water pump that was torn, but you couldn’t see where I was loosing coolant because there was an area under the intake where coolant could pool and not run over, it was horrible to change to accessory bracket had to be pulled, along with the accessories it was horrible lol
Possible cavitation along with electrolysis?
Hey Eric. I have a 2011 ford escape with v6 3.0. It overheated after I changed my starter which led me to checking my water pump. It is on the driver side by 1 pulley. I've been told that the pulley is the camshaft pulley. My issue is that neither is spinning. Running or not. I took the belt off thinking it was the water pump but that spins beautifully by hand. That pulley however gives a bit then snaps back to where it was. The car still starts and drives. Just with a lack of power when I gas it. Any idea what it could be?
My Honda Element is the opposite.on the highway it’s fine but on-a stop it overheats.no leaking of fluids.replace radiator cap,thermostat and hoses.i give up.
is it a water pump if the top of radiator hot and bottom radiator cold ?, and temp gauge go to hot
I have 91 honda prelude si 2.1 I replease radiador .thermostat coolant sensor .fan switch an steel overhead went stop in red light went driving on the hyway is normal temperature you think i have bad water pump
This is exactly what i found on my car yesterday.
Sir I have a 2006 Hyunoal. ELAnTA My problem is no heat I flush the heater core replace the thermostat still no heat but I noticed the hose that goes to the radiator to the thermostat is stone cold and the other one is hot please respond what is the problem
I have same problem with my car. It’s overheats if I continue driving but cools down when stop or idling. I have replaced the thermostat and done a coolant flush but no luck so far. So the last resort will be to change the water pump. Although I don’t see any signs of wear or leak on water pump .
High Eric. That is true on cheap parts. I have had a couple of GM model car do that so be to surprise that you might come across more.
In my experience overheating and no heat from vents in car = Water Pump. No heat from vents no overheating = clogged heater core or broken heater core. I have replaced many Thermostats but that was never the problem. Again this is just in my experience.
I currently have a weep hole leak but not enough to cause an overheat so far. Just enough to say its time to change the waterpump.
The other symptom is I noticed my coolant was brown a few weeks ago. The 5.9 manum engine sat for 6 yrs before I swapped it into what use to be a crappy 4.7 engine bay.
Anyway,,, I flushed it and it's been good till now. It'll be interesting to see what the inside of this one looks like.
BTW. Swapping a 5.9 4×4 offroad Dodge Ram into a 4.7 4×4 sport may sound simple but almost the entire bottom half of the truck had to be moved…. drivetrain and electrical… and the computers including the antilock block and instrument cluster. These dmn things talk to each other and shreak like a bunch of girls if not together. 5.9l mag engines are great. This one has 250,000+ miles with orriginal trans off my 1500 someone wrecked. I guess that's one reason they stopped making them.
I see alot of overheat problems from the pressurized coolant systems. Pressure has to go somewhere and it seams head gaskets are the weakest link in an already weak motor design. May be "more efficient" to some but they're geeky weaklings when put under stress.
The difficulty in changing the water pump makes it a last resort because of transverse engine mounting. On an older car you could R&R a water pump in 30 minutes no sweat.
2004 Taurus overheats once I exit highway speed no matter how long I am on the highway, otherwise runs good. Any suggestions?
93 Ranger came in overheating. Radiator leaking was obvious, so new upgraded 2-row aluminum went in. Test drive and overheated quickly, and block test showed head gasket problem. Had heads reworked and magnafluxed was part of the machine shop repairs. Put heads on and STILL overheats. Water pump was replaced 2-years ago so did not think it to be a problem till now. Will remove pump and see if impeller problem exists.
This has me frustrated, and leaking radiator driven till head gaskets blew. All this work and still overheating. Am pulling water pump tomorrow and will update this comment then.
UPDATE: Impeller completely ate up with rust……
Eric I drive 2005 Chevy Aveo, I was on the freeway going about 70mph when the temperature gauge started passing halfway, so I had to pull over. Coolant level was good, no leaking. I kept driving, a mile down the road the car started to over heat again, I exit the freeway and pull over. I turn the heater on and the temperature dropped under half way, do you think it might be the water pump?????
That thing went through a terrible divorce……the wife probably ended uP^ with the car…and thus ran it to the ground because it was originally her husbands first car.
Could of been a head gasket leaking pressure and exhaust into the coolant system. It would make the coolant acidic eating away at every metal part in the coolant system. Rare, but happened to my 1999 Ford Ranger.
¿How about using a clear piece of hose from the water pump outlet to the radiator? that should be able to show if coolant its circulating…right?
My car was overheating and the temperature indicator would come on, the radiator had broken and I fixed it, but there was an issue
What about looking for silver glitter? In the antifreeze when you take your radiater cap off? Or can that be alumiseal people put in to seal the radiator?
Sometimes I wish manufacturers would include test ports on suction and discharge, where they really aren't worth time rebuilding. As the impeller goes away, differential pressure drops. Alternatively, a flowmeter could be rigged up on suction hose, but… who has one of those? Good video, keeping it within reach of the average guy with some wrenches.
Thank you. Awesome.
Hey Eric. I have a 06 toyota highlander that has a lot of pressure on both top and bottom radiator hose. Both hose are back out about a finger on the engine and radiator side like they are backing out do to the pressure. Would you say that's the pump or thermostat?
I have a 2013 Chevy sonic LT. I have a coolant drip coming from the area of the water pump and timing belt. The pump was replaced back in April 2019. The car is not showing any signs of over heating. Could it be a seal?
@ericthecarguy. sup buddy. same exact thing just happend to me. bn overheating off n on for close to a year. changed an checked everything. compression for head gaskets. i opened the radiator and rodded it out. kept bleedind and burpi5the system. always had an idea its the pump…. $20 brand new water pump and the problem is gone. the old pump had 1….. 1 blade left and only cooled when i revved the motor. any type of idling cause the fluid to not floq and well. yes over heating… mine look almost exactly like the pump you removed… great vid btw as always
My wifes 1995 Isuzu Rodeo is having similar symptons. Just changed the thermostat and is still running hot. So bouts to change the water pump next, because the coolant is not flowing through the engine. The bearings were making noise but didnt get to it in time. Thanks for the video wasnt sure if it was the water pump.
Hey Eric I have a Honda Accord EX 2000 model would one fan be enough to cool my engine?
I feel the best option for water pump related concerns is to look up common problems for x model car. Certain vehicles have higher frequencies of water pump issues. And example being the 2007-2011 camry. They are renowned for water pump problems. This helps identify the potential for a problem, but does not confirm which is what we need. I feel as tho a sensor inline with the pipe from the pump is the best way thr auto industry could make this easier. 20 dollar sensor that measures water flow would do the trick! But would they ever do that? SIMPLE, FUCK NO
the weep hole- does an datsun-nissan L20B engine pump have a weep hole,-if so that bush-seal was faulty at rebuild jan 2019, now noisy- fan belt was so tight it wrecked teh new alternator- and brides worry about the car breaking, down, blame the mechanic
That impeller was as bad as any I've seen, surprised it cooled at all! Anyway, I've found several times the aluminum housing has corroded and the pump couldn't pump enough antifreeze. So yes, it does happen but as you say much less often.
Dude if you have no heat then your water pump is bad.
The amazing fact is that the water pump worked for 120,000 miles? That's incredible!
3.2 vtec I have a rumbling noise at idle you can't hear it when driving but it sounds terrible the car runs fine but whatever is making this noise has to be soon to fail
I have a 1990 ford ranger is doing the same thing
Eric have question why my temperature gauge get low when I’m running and the engine light come on
On a water pump being moved by the serpentine belt Ive always used a large screwdriver as a stethoscope. If I can't hear it turning than its not working. I have come across some where they get clogged by having two different coolant types mixed.
Thanks for the video @eric very helpful I’m going to replace my water pump and hopefully it fixes my overheating issue.
Head gasket seal, slows the circulation of the coolant, and is overheating our Nissan x-trail, but works so good on the cracked, or wharped head gasket, or cracked cylinder head … need to just fix the problem, not add stuff that is so thick it drains through a funnel in 5 seconds, and the coolant drains in 2.5 seconds.
I still have an issue and I replaced my thermostat and it still over heats and I replaced the radiator still had that problem so I replaced the water pump and still have the problem what can I do next it's a chevy c10 1978 350
Watched your alternator troubleshooting video and found out it (My problem) wasn't there but in the idlearm bearing under the alternator. Thanks so much for your videos. 2002 dodge caravan.
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if the water pump is not doing its job the radiator will be cool because water is not flowing through. That was my case , I was wondering why is was not hot, I replaced the water pump and found the same thing you did.
hi there i just put in a new radiator and new thermostat put it in and now it has been 2 weeks and the thing is still overheating. just wondering if anyone can tell me why? I was thinking it was the water pump but not sure?:(
That 6G72 Mitsubishi DOHC engine that made its way around a lot of Japanese cars is very “UNFORGIVING AND SENSITIVE†when it comes to anything timing belt related. That water pump is driven by the timing belt. Everything that belt comes in contact with must be genuine oem Mitsubishi. Especially the tensioner adjuster I’ve seen aftermarket tensioners leak and let go of that timing belt in as little as 200 miles. Once anything in that makes contact with that timing belt fails, (water pump seizes, tensioner adjuster lets go, bearings fall out of the idler and tensioner pulleys) will either cause the belt to overheat and break, or cause the timing belt to “jump time†(become loose and jump teeth putting the engine out of phase). And this engine he’s talking about is not very forgiving at all. Maybe 3 or more teeth out of phase and you’re looking at anywhere from 4 to all 24 valves being struck by the pistons. So 24 bent valves, I’ve seen cracked heads around the valve seats, I’ve seen pistons cracked in half with sharp edges scuffing up the cylinder beyond repair, and I’ve even seen it turn a connecting rod bearing into tin foil. Yes I rebuild Mitsubishi 3000gt vr4 and dodge Stealth twin turbo engines aka this engine. So yea I’ve seen it all. And I tell customers that I would rather re use old oem parts that are still functional then bolt on aftermarket timing components. Especially on this particular engine.
The only exception to this oem rule is the Gates Racing Blue timing belt. It’s 100 times stronger then the genuine Mitsubishi timing belt. But it’s very expensive over $200. But that’s only for built engines that are tuned with adjustable camshaft timing gears. So bottom line just stick with Genuine Mitsubishi timing components weather you have this engine in a gallant, Kia, Hyundai, or dodge Stealth.
My car overheated which I thought must be the water pump since i flushed out the radiator and replaced thermostat only a year ago but when i took the pump off it was in perfect condition no corrosion,leaks or play in the pulley so I thought it must be thermostat nope that opened perfectly in hot water.. I replaced the radiator,pump and thermostat and that resolved my overheating but still don't understand why it overheated all i can think of is that the oil in my radiator must've clogged the radiator stopping coolant flowing through since my intake manifold gasket was letting oil leak into the radiator.