Learn to replace a pressed wheel bearing in a Ford, specifically a 95 Ford Windstar, but this method will be similar for all pressed bearing vehicles.
The main steps are to take off the spindle nut, tire, brake caliper, and rotor. Then remove the bolts from the lower control arm ball joint, tie rod, and strut. Remove the steering knuckle, then press out the bearing and hub/spindle. Then press in your new bearing and hub/spindle. This job is a little more complex but can still be easily done by any amateur mechanic. You will save $400-1000 depending on your vehicle.

Here is how to Replace a Hub Bearing Assembly (rear wheel drive): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04AyCYIUEWQ
Here is how to Replace a Hub Bearing Assembly (front wheel drive): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fe_WtKIKlYA
Bearing Press Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZABHLQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AZABHLQ&linkCode=as2&tag=chri0e2-20&linkId=EIBAN5P55H2K2M5C

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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.

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40 thoughts on “How to Change a Wheel Bearing (long and detailed version)”
  1. Guys, when pressing in the hub, you want to use an adapter on the other side that only presses on the inner race of the bearing. Also, on some cars, the magnetic side of the bearing needs to go towards the inside.

  2. you really teach one to be good chris. thanks. I like the way you show. step by step. 👍♥️👍♥️👍

  3. Guys it’s really important and I know this from experience. If ever you only jacked up one tire with the scissor jack with the adjacent tire still on the ground, like don’t steer or anything. I changed my brakes recently and I started off with a scissor jack and to have better access to the bolts on the knuckle, I steered my wheels and thank god my tire was off and underneath the car because my car collapsed after steering right onto my tire. I’d be buying a new car if my tire wasn’t under the car. So if your working in your 2 front tires and only have one of them in the air, don’t steer cause your car will collapse to the ground

  4. I think it is crucial that when to install the hub, that disc on the back, on the opposite side, shouldn't cover any snap ring parts, it should be of the smaller radius, so it covers only the central part of the bearing and doesn't touch the snap ring. I ruined 2 bearings until I found my mistake. The 3rd attempt was successful and the knuckle assembly was pressed in correctly. I used press and the kit, I think with the kit it is easier and more even pressing (sockets 27, 32, better to use a pry bar). It is relatively easy to remove that old ring fm the cylindrical part of the hub if to use Large Bearing Separator fm Harbor Fright. I pressed it against the deepening part of the ring and placed the assembly into press.

  5. We saw Chris’s face 😂😂

  6. I only just found your channel, and I'm officially hooked, it's really helpful, I just got a new car, it's not brand new so having issues, so thanks man… Take care

  7. After many undercover videos this is the first one I watch where his face is shown
    Thank you for all the good videos, have learned a lot from them

  8. Thank you very much Chris for the "long and detailed" version. One won't realize how much more useful the "long and detailed version" is compared to the "short and fast version" until he/she starts doing this job! I guess the majority just watch for fun and aren't willing to get hands dirty. Hence, much more "Likes" on the "short and fast version".

  9. When you press a bearing the goal is to never put stress on the balls or rollers. Only press the bearing race that you are trying to instal. What I mean by that is you did the first part correct when you pointed out to put the press ring on the outer ring on the bearing. You were installing the outside of the bearing into the steering knuckle. The part that was done incorrectly was when you installed the hub into the bearing. Since you're installing the hub onto the inner bearing race you want to make sure that you're only putting pressure on that inner bearing race and the hub when pressing them together. The tools from the kit that you chose relied on the bearing to apply the force to from the knuckle to the hub and could cause damage to the bearing. Does that make sense? The smaller rings in the tool kit are for that purpose. Hammering the hub to get it started into the bearing is also a no-no. I work with very small dental bearings and the same rules apply. Those are very fragile and pressing on the outer ring when you should be pressing on the inner ring will ruin those right before your eyes (as they are literally destroyed).

    I know this is an old video and I'm not sure if someone else has brought this to your attention. I love your videos and have learned a lot from them.

  10. Now you have just about every tool that exist… great job as well… I've learned alot from watching your videos. 👉😊

  11. Great video, you are a warrior!👍 🔧🇨🇦

  12. Hi, Chris, you’re the best I learned a lot from you, hope you won’t get tired of sharing your skills .

  13. Was it necessary to remove the knuckle with that bearing tool? Couldn’t you have just left the strut attached and done the job with the knuckle still on the car?

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