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http://www.youtube.com/user/markjhicks
As you can see by the title this video covers the diagnosis and repair of a P0325 on my 1997 Subaru Legacy L model with 2.2L engine backed by an auto trans. I did have some trouble with the ‘factory’ diagnostic procedure but thankfully my friend Mark at Wells Electronics had a test that involved a voltage drop across the sensor that worked perfectly. I hope this video illustrates the import ants of understanding a circuit that you’re diagnosing as opposed to just throwing parts at something, with a little time and effort you can do a proper diagnosis.
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I don't understand why a knock sensor replacement could fix the issue. My understanding is the knock sensor is designed to find a issue somewhere else and then warn you. Let's say you replace a knock sensor test it and know that it's good. If the light doesn't come on again what was triggering it in the first place. I'm getting a knock sensor code that occasionally comes on only when I'm on the freeway. I reset the code and the light stays out for a long time so if the light doesn't come does that mean it's not detecting an issue until the light comes back on. And also there's no performance issues no notice of lower power or bad fuel economy or running rough. Replacing the knock sensor on my car a Nissan Xterra is a nightmare major job there's a bypass way around it but I'm not sure I want to do that requires clipping the wire from the harness and bolting the knock sensor to a accessible part of the block
How can you tell if the motor mount is bad??I'd notice when I started the vehicle and notice the motor rose up higher than normal..
Do you have a IAC VIDEO also?
Its ok, but I'm learning..my subaru also have that code among others code.
Thanks that was useful anyways.
Youre the shit eric. Thanks again. Gonna keep that paped trick handy .
Thanks Eric!
Eric, your video made me realize that the knock sensor has no resistance, until it is activated and that the sensor has to see some vibration from engine to keep the light off. I replaced mine in a 2002 Camry 2.4 and still kept getting the code. I isolated it from the engine and grounded it but still got the code. So I relocated it higher on the head bracket to see and no more code. The engine runs smooth and now my transmission shift to high. Still don't know why the original location kept throwing the code, Thanks
Even tho the hammer trick didn't work i appreciate the creative troubleshooting ideas.
Didn't even bother with diagnosing the sensor, got a BOSCH one on clearout from rockauto for $11.
Thank you very much , there are two things about the sensor that i was confused about and I found the answer , you are the first-rate technician.
Man if Australia was good like these mechanics, wouldn't worry about them changing this that,no idea, it's like having a anxiety attack when you drive your car in for whatever, really shocking,ok these is good mechanics but 90%wouldnt have a clue, Must be a weetbox cereal licence, WTF 🤨
INTERMITTENT SUCKS. Worked at a great shop for about 15 years we hated INTERMITTENT with a passion. 🤣
Did you get toy knock senser or aftermarket?
why you dnt repeat the test with the scan knocking the engine block to see if read something?
That little piece of wisdom made my day. Thanks Eric!
Hi Eric. Great video. Thank you for that. I thought to ask if voltage readings should be same on other vehicles (makes/models) or this is specifically for the Subaru?
I have a p0330 on my 2001 sienna and I'm trying to troubleshoot it.
Thank you!
Does anyone know how can you test if the issue is with the ECM apart from the sensor and Provably even if you getting a new knock sensor I would like to test the new sensor to avoid double the work from having installing a new defective sensor. Thank you in advance for you input 🙂
Eric go watch chris fix for that stubborn ignition key😅
Protip at https://youtu.be/W2cFuheKBgQ?t=670
Thanks Eric
Awesome video