Link to full version of the video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/vmanuals/22-vmanual-store/236-2001-gmc-sonoma-2-2l-engine-replacement-video-full-version

In Part 5 of the series we finish swapping things over to the new engine, install the slave cylinder and throw out bearing, and get the engine mated back up to the transmission. That was easier said then done. This was actually one of the most difficult engine installations because I was trying to mate the engine up to a manual transmission. If I were to do it again I think I would have pulled the engine and transmission as a unit and mated them up before installation. It might take a little more time to do the R&R but I think it would have made things a LOT easier. I suppose all’s well that ends well but I would recommend you pull the transmission with the engine if you have a manual transmission. It might make your life a lot easier. Here’s some useful links for you.

Link to Part 1 in case you missed it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ivqj2LjE28&feature=youtu.be

Donate for DIPG: http://www.reflectionsofgrace.org/index.php/diffuse-intrinsic-pontine-glioma-dipg.html

Other videos staring this truck.

Tapered Roller Bearing Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccsbu2hT0MI

Lubricating a Chassis: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB2RiRKDQ9k

Serpentine Belt Replacement: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wg1AX77xEBQ

Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/46056-2001-gmc-sonoma-2-2l-engine-replacement-series#65904

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Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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43 thoughts on “2001 GMC Sonoma 2.2L Engine Replacement (Part 5) -EricTheCarGuy”
  1. Actually you have to put the lock on in the slave cilinder line and then just push the line in .is built for easy install
    But everything else you make a awesome job and show smartness and experience
    Helpful 👍

  2. A lot of years have passed but do you recall where you got the long block? I have a 99 S10 with a bad engine… looking for a decent engine. Thanks. Rick

  3. at 21:04 when you reached out your left hand and say the word 'Stuff over here" while telling us what to be careful for, there was a black wire with a green cap you grabbed. What was this wire and where does it go? 2.2l Chevy 10 'o3 85k miles.

  4. Hola, saludos desde costa Rica,sólo quería preguntar,para que es el hueco cuadrado que no lleva nada, que está a un costado de bajo de los huecos de la salida de la admisión, o bien,el que está sobre el sensor que marca el kilometraje,gracias !!

  5. it is best to remove the trany put the engine in and then put the trany in after you put the engine in place or pull the trany and motor together and then change all of your stuff and then reicembeal

  6. Easier to drop Trans. Yesterday reinstalling 95 2.2, heat shield on DS exaust blocked hole for mount finaly drove phillips screw driver thru sheet metal. and then punch, Tapered bolt and got it, These are real bitch, On rear just add two headless bolts in block slide trans up then remove  Twist rear out put shaft to align splines requires being in any gear when shifter was removed

  7. I love see people strugle with these things lol. If you don't have the tools for it. Use a safty belt instead of a chain. Make sure the car is in first gear. Make sure the grarbox and engine is on the same angle. Lower the gearbox if needed. Take both the engine mount off. Is no work what so ever to do this. If you know your work 😁 2 h…..? LOL… just a tip. Never use the bolt to have the gearbox and engine together ! 25 years and the longest time I have strugle with this is 20 min 😁 love your videos Eric. Keep up the good work. Sorry for my bad english.

  8. I know us guys can comment on a helping hand or buddy being there for the project but most of us guys can't help our own nature of doing things alone.

    But beyond that I think EricTheCarGuy wanted to do this for a friend he lost and his patience and passion can teach us that we are as good as are thoughts and are attitude that we put into any job.

  9. Im glad im not the only one gaving a HELL of a time ive been fighting this thing for a while. Which is why i looked this up to see if i messed up, nope its just relentless

  10. Us experienced guys know what you meant about the dowel and the bolts and being "home free"… but you should have put a serious caveat on your expression "draw them together"… I have seen MANY broken bell housings and block ears from people "drawing them together"… I know YOU know better, but man, some people's kids….

  11. When I did a clutch in one of these I found it much easier to mate the trans to the engine rather than vice versa. I got the engine more or less where I wanted it, then slid the transmission home before bolting it back to the cross member. For anyone who has to work on one of these in the future, that might help.

  12. You look tired at min 30:50. I dont want to be in your shoes. It's a joke. First, I would have attached the engine and then attach the trans to engine. What do you think about this idea? Thanks

  13. Some dork i know replaced the clutch, master and slave. i bled it and the pedal feels gd, it is working right at the top and there is enough drag where it will not go in to gear running. is there enough room in the flywheel that he could have installed the clutch reverse? or if he bent the tongs could it have the same effect? Thanks

  14. hard work. Only thing I would have done different is install a new flywheel or re surface the old one. Tend to get chatter if not

  15. Turning the engine crank to align the transmission will only work if the transmission is in gear and will not turn, Jim, master ASE Mechanic

  16. Eric,  I did a clutch in this truck, same year, same engine.  I was watching this video series from the beginning.  When you were debating about pulling it all, I was thinking to myself, uh-oh….  this will be interesting going back together.  It was bad enough doing the reverse, pulling the tranny and stabbing the tranny back.  I have to say it was easier though, took half an hour to stab it.  But, I cheated, I had my wife come outside to tug on the tailstock and rotate the output shaft while I worked the transmission jack ready with the 18 mm bolt.  I can only imagine how tired you were after 2 and half hours.  If I was doing that job, I probably would have dropped the tranny.  The only hard part is stabbing  it, which you'd have to do anyway.

    The only other item I noticed was the removing the header pipe in the previous video.  Somehow I was able to get to all three bolts, but I disconnected from the catalytic converter first (per FSM)

  17. i would suggest for a near future purchase to be a engine leveler. harbor freight has them for $25 for a 1 ton leveler which will help you with this dilemma 

  18. It seems to me like mating the engine with the transmission would be a heck of alot easier with 2 people. One person to operate the crane and move the engine around and one person giving instruction and ready to slip the bolts in as soon as he sees the opportunity.

  19. I've heard that sometimes it's easier to mate the engine with a manual transmission if the transmission is in gear. Not sure why this is but something relating to the way the spline is positioned

  20. i usually fight to get the engine and trans together for about 5 minutes, get frustrated and take a break.  come back and get it on the first try.  I don't understand it but that is the trend for me.

  21. LOL eric you aint kiddin, putting plug wiring on outside the engine bay, is far easier. ( if you have to have engine out lol) I had to put new wires on a pig like that. under the truck. it was NOT fun. definitely a 12 beer job

  22. Dang Eric, you need an "engine hoist load leveler" ASAP..

    Works better than motrin for your engine headaches.

  23. I did this job on my 1970 Camaro small block without removing the 4 speed – the gods must have been with me cause with a new clutch etc it all lined up and the engine slid in after about three tries — I was astonished–LOL

  24. Leave it to GM to make a combination slave cylinder-throwout bearing. My Frontier pickup had the slave cylinder on the outside of the trans…when it went bad, it took 10 minutes to replace, including bleeding the air out.

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