Using a Multimeter to Test Fuel Injector Resistance Ohms. Learn how to check fuel injectors to make sure they are working. You use a multimeter on the resistance settings and measure the ohms of the injector. All injectors should be within .5 ohms of each other. If an injector is out of the resistance specification, that injector is bad.
Symptoms of bad injectors are a check engine light with codes P0300 through P0308, misfiring, hesitation, poor fuel economy, stalling, and a poor idle.

Using a Screwdriver to test fuel injectors (EASY): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA_E6X4ISgQ
How to test Fuel Pressure : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oXLUqE4Sf0
How to Test Spark Plug Wires: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_EFGAFxi1w

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38 thoughts on “How to Check Fuel Injector Resistance with a Multimeter”
  1. I have a 1992 Ford Bronco 5.8l. I have an injector that is constantly feeding and when you shut the truck off it keeps firing. Any thoughts?

  2. Great! do you know if there is a relation between the code for the injectors with the crankshaft position sensor code?

  3. Dear Chris, I have a 2004 Grand Marquis, (I'm the original owner, about 230,000 miles on the car) and have had an ongoing problem with the engine light coming on after driving the car for a while. Symptoms are rough idle after the car comes to a stop; usually slows down to around 550 rpm, plus or minus after 20 to 30 seconds of coming to a stop, followed by occasional shuddering on acceleration. I've had the car to two mechanics. Before taking it to any mechanics, several months ago I replaced all the plugs and coils. Lately, one mechanic replaced all the plugs, which had less than 11,000 miles. He replaced the number 5 coil. A week later I bought a new air idle control valve and a new throttle position sensor and had him install them. He checked for vacuum leaks and twice he told me he found vacuum leaks. None of these new parts or service have solved the problem.
    I put a scanner on to see what code appears when the engine light comes on. It's 0355, which is the #5 cylinder. Another mechanic noticed the #5 coil was somewhat loose. He noticed the thread was stripped on the coil bolt, so he dropped a piece of plastic wire tie in the bolt hole of the manifold, and that made the bolt tight. Then he used a couple of plastic wire ties to secure the connector to the coil. He erased the code, and the engine light stayed off, until I drove the car about 20 miles the next day, it came back on. On the last two gas fill ups, I put a bottle of lucas fuel injection cleaner in the tank at each fill up. I also tried spraying contact cleaner on all the coil connectors, and several other electrical connectors.
    Is there any thing else you might recommend or (GOD FORBID) should I take it to a Ford dealership?
    Thanks for all the help you give to so many people !!!

  4. So I had a flashing check engine code on our car. Scanner said cyl 6 misfire and cyl 6 fuel injector. Car started running good, I did the screwdriver check and could hear the pulses. Then car started running bad so I listened for the pulses thought I could hear them. So checked the Ohm on cyl 6 against 4 and 5. Cyl. 4 and 5 were the same, cyl 6 didnt even read. So was I hearing residual pulses from another injector?

  5. Not sure if this is even my problem yet, but I just want to thank you for something very basic yet for some odd reason many fix it videos for various problems that involve checking with a multimeter never tell you what to change the damn switch on the meter to only what it should or should not read so thanks a lot definitely got a subscriber even if this isnt my problem. lol

  6. Thanks for the video. I have two bad ones. One at 1 and the other at 39. My hood ones read 14.9 and the ones I hot from autozone read 15.9. Should I install them just like that? Replacing all 6 will be a lot mire money.

    But my worry is that it will be higher than the .5 you recomend.

    Btw, I couldn't find the specs on my car's injector.
    Thanks and please let me know what would happened having two injectors at 15.9 and the other 4 at 14.9.

  7. Hey man where you from?? I have a ford 4.2 that sound like a diesel with misfire and lean codes and have had 3 mechanics give it back saying they can't find the problem

  8. Hi Chris. Thanks for doing this video and the screwdriver one. In this video; if one of the readings is different, does that mean a faulty injector or faulty connection? Many thanks, Martin

  9. Thank you man!! I’m always checking your videos, you help me out every time! With my 97 Ranger.. I also have a 2010 Ram 1500 having problems with the Tipm.. Can you help me out with that Chris 👍🏼

  10. Ok so I have this one injector, has good resistance (around 5, exactly like the working ones) but when I apply the voltage just won't click (unlike the working ones) I tried spraying pressurized carb cleaner while voltaging it, also let the cleaner rest. Nothing is working. My question is: If I have continuity, why won't it click?

  11. Got a lot of resistance on those leads, touching them together on a 200 ohms scale should have zeroed the meter out almost instantly… it didn't even go past 5.1 ohms. Cheap tester and cheap leads.

  12. Chris you saved me a bunch of money! I used my multimeter to test the injectors on my Chrysler 200C 3.6L. Each tested at 15.0 ohms, except my one trouble cylinder. That one tested at 33.0. Replaced that injector, all my engine warning lights turned off and it's running smooth. Your video very straight forward and the graphics made it easy to understand the discussion. Thanks!!!

  13. I have a Q
    My car hyundai accent 99
    Power supply measured between 2 pins in wire of each injector is 7 v
    But when i measure each pin with body of the car one measure 12 v and other 5 v
    Is this normal or what should i do ?

  14. How to know if we have injector are leaking down or cloged ıs there any test for that? Thank you for your great videos

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