I’ve started the modifications on the 1979 Ford Fairmont. Remember kids, many of the things I do to this car also apply to Mustangs from 1979-1992. So if you’re looking for a walkthrough on installing frame connectors, this will work for you too.
As it shows in the video my Fairmont is slightly longer than a Mustang. This created some challenges when installing the frame connectors. I’m still thinking about how I’m going to tackle that issue. For now the results are fantastic. The car is more sure footed and a LOT less noisy going over bumps. In my opinion, this is one of the best upgrades you can do to a Fox body vehicle, especially if it’s a convertible.
I did run into some issues with the brackets. Not sure what that was about. Perhaps there was an issue with my Fairmont, or it could have been a manufacturing issue. So far it seems to have worked out.
Lastly, I would recommend using a stripper over a grinder for cleaning the metal. I’d also recommend a face shield as I was picking chucks of metal out of my face for a couple of days after this. Also my safety glasses didn’t catch everything and a couple of times I got junk in my eye.
Link to the frame connectors I used: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MM-MMFL5B/79-04-Mustang-Maximum-Motorsports-Bare-Finish-Full-Length-Subframe-Connectors
Camera: Brian Kast
Thanks for watching!
Link to extended version of this video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/premium-content-web/13-premium-content-videos/1184-installing-frame-connectors-ford-fox-body-extended-cut
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Tools
Welder: http://www.longevity-inc.com/mig-welders/migweld-140
Grinder: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/makita-9557pbx1-4-1-2-angle-grinder/#oid=1002_1
Angle Die Grinder: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/k-tool-87129-air-die-grinder-kit-gearless-angle-die-grinder/#oid=1002_1
Tap and Die Set: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/gearwrench-3887-75-piece-tap-and-die-drive-tool-set-sae-metric/#oid=1002_1
The grinder I should have used: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/3m-03172-large-rust-and-paint-stripper/#oid=1002_1
Face Shield: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/sas-safety-5145-deluxe-face-shield-clear/#oid=1002_1
Related videos
The Fairmont, The Plan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNwBGKf0TcM
The Fairmont Goes To The Drag Strip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkOdD0P38ps
The Fairmont, A Closer Look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2I0c-jJa14
Welder Plasma Cutter Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0n2CzzF0aAE
Driving Old Cars: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18LrBpBPNlQ
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ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Crappy Work, Things should have worked right if the work was done correctly. Also those welds suck HA HA
THE BIG RED WRENCH
Sound like you need to take a few welding courses. Horrible looking weld. Sounded like you where making popcorn while welding
Ive been told to use a hoist that the vehicle drives onto to put frame connectors in, as body flex can get involved and things could be a little different once the body hoist puts the car on the ground, for me I am gonna use a drive hoist, keep in mind I have put all new suspension on my 91 mustang, I have never done this before, so if anyone out there wants to offer any help or ideas I welcome their comments, to me information is power.
The doors would shut a lot better if you had new door hinge pins. You can see them dropping when you open the doors.
Great video, I like that you don’t pretend to have all the answers at the start and figure it out as you go. Now I get to do this on my svo.
Great vid ! I have a 78 Zephyr Z7. Really thinking about installing those subframe connectors. So you really recommend ? Did you resolve the door problems ? Thx
Not sure if I missed it or not, but it didnt look like those stiffening plates (over the bends in the square tube) got welded in. It also looked like they were about mid-section, so maybe that is enough to stiffen that beam the rest of the way?
nothing cool about a Fairmont except sleeper… but what interesting is all the cop cats that started building Fairmont's after this vid lol
Crank up your welder a bit . I use 2"x4" towers that I made 14" tall . I put the car tires right on top of them then bolt and Weil with 28" of working clearance from the floor . I don't like using jack stands that much as they get in the way . As I have put frame con. on many of my and my friends cars I will have to say good job . It was fun to watch you doing this job .
I seen you welds Eric.. you're getting another grinder for Christmas.
What brand did you use?
Nice project! I need yo do this to my 78 futura before next spring at the track. I heard they are not long enough and no one makes for the original fox body.
The purpose of the frame connectors has nothing to do witb your doors closing on a preloaded suspension
Two years already ? I cant believe it .No way! Umm wow it has been 2 years . Thats why i am getting bored with your content .all i see if Fairmont.
I so miss bench seats
00:31:45 ish watch the nose lift as he lifts off the jackstands (post door test lift)… that squared box has NO rigidity at all, lol. like a closckspring car body. notice, NO lateral support ribbing of any kind extends from those "rails", and even their support ends at the front of the door sill. you need a cage with fixed door bars to actually stop that chit. very unsuited to high po mods, that box is gonna twist up loaded by a launching 302, even worse than real 396 novas were (used to spot em by the cracked windshield)
More in its operating state if that makes sense
Would the doors close better if you had car on ground then tightened bolts on the chassis mod
Wow, none of my old cars have been even close to that bad with flex.I'm surprised you didn't go for crossbeams… But if it's that bad, maybe you needed the sides first.
What an ass-kicker! Nice work making it happen.
Frame connectors need to be in an "X" fashion. that truly strengthens a unibody car. Weld in braces from front right to back left and front left to back right.
@ericthecarguy they sell reinforcement plates for the front seat studs and they're a great cheap investment as the studs seem to snap out of the floor fairly often as a matter of fact the SSP police mustangs came with the reinforcement I'm talking about. Just my .02 as a fellow fox owner
I am thinking that leaving those bend reinforcement gussets off could be a large cause of your door closing only getting a little better.
Try lifting the car with the lift pads underneath the Subframe Connectors. I bet that door issue will resolve itself and you won't damage the pinch seams of your car. Always try and lift a car from a reinforced frame point. Use the punch seam as s very last resort.
EMBRACE THE SPARKS AND FLAME!
Sounds like you either need more wire speed or something is up with your wire feeding
Also SLOW down
And try to make small circles or c's or u's etc when using mig
Also try to make as large a pass as possible
You need to turn up your wire speed by about 5 percent…