Four-wheel drive independent front suspension (IFS) systems have been used on a lot of pickups since the 1980s. That’s when consumers started demanding pickups that were more comfortable and could be used every day. LT has GM’s 8 1/4″ front differential that was pulled from the ’88 K 1500. That was the first year GM used IFS on a full-sized 4WD truck. A lot of people have no idea how these systems work or what it takes to disassemble them. So after running through the differences between IFS and solid-axle, LT will get into that.
The two are actually more similar than you might think. Both have a ring gear inside and ap inion gear that’s attached to the driveshaft coming from the transfer case. Both also have a way to disconnect power from the wheels so you’re not spinning the whole driveline going down the road. On the old-school axle, it’s on the end of the hub whereas on the IFS it has an electronic disconnect mounted inside the axle. That’s where the teardown begins.
A thermal linear actuator unscrews from the housing and a few bolts come out to take the differential apart. You can then see the passenger side two-piece axle disconnect system. This is what creates the link and power between the spinning wheel and the rest of the drivetrain. It’s a cool combination of electronic and mechanical parts.
It works as you apply 12 volts of power across the coil, the actuator heats up inside, expands, and pushes the rod out. When you remove power, it then contracts back in. The actuator installs into the side of the housing and as it expands the end pushes out. There’s a small dowel on the outside axle shaft that centers the inside. As the shift fork extends, a collar slides over the splined areas of both parts of the axles engaging 4WD. When you disengage it, a spring pushes the shift fork back, releasing the collar. Finally, there is a small switch that tells the light on the dashboard when 4WD is engaged.
Disassembly continues with taking the remaining bolts off that hold the main case house together. A pry bar then opens it up. The CV flange on the driver side is held in with an internal clip so it takes a bit of force to pop out. From there, the carrier comes out. Now that the cases are fully split, you can put on new bearings, re-seal it, or even re-gear. Now that it’s apart, it’s pretty easy to get it back together!
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Can you install a locker in front
Can I add a limited slip to the ifs front diff?
Awesome ty
What gun is that
AdTube more commercials then cable tv
I have a 2012 silverado with 8.25 and swapped front diff from another 2012 with 8.25 but i noticed front wheels turn faster, why is this happening if both axles are 8.25?
But I like the ride of a solid axle
Hey so how hard would it be to add an ifs to my 17 GMC Sierra 2wd wt? Parts needed that I know. Correct transmission, transfer case, front it’s diff, cv axles and parts, new rear drive shaft, and correct cross member for trans. Now do I need new front knuckles or will the new front hubs mount to my 2wd ones?
Honestly, I wouldn't have liked this video prior to my build, but almost every other dingus with a YouTube account skips one or two crucial steps because * all 8.25" IFS Are the same* or apparently noone ever had a dog or child mess up the order of the disassembled parts.
But most commonly, " I need an extra set of hands for this next part…" SO LEAN YOUR PHONE/CAMERA AGAINST SOMETHING YOU LAZY PILE!!!! 🤯
I know this was an informative video, not a build guide, but you stopped for 5 seconds on the actuator assembly-: long enough to show how the pieces are positioned. Thank you. Half the videos I watched have one or more pieces in the wrong orientation with no correction. The ones that don't have terrible camera work. You even installed the actuator when exhibiting how it works, as to not lead them into ruining it by doing such uninstalled. Great video. Thank you!
just snapped a front axle in 08 chevy 3/4 ton for first time, this video was perfect for basic understanding of how the 4×4 works and is disassembled. Thank you for making this video and cross some fingers for just one broken cv. Are there any other affordable parts worth replacing at 125k, while im already working on ifs for a fairly abused 4×4?