On this Engine Power episode, the team tests the limits of Ford’s 5.0L block with big compression, solid roller cam, and 8000 RPM dyno runs.

PARTS USED IN THIS EPISODE:

Air Flow Research: Cylinder Heads, Competition Porting, Aluminum, Assembled, 58cc Chamber, 195cc Intake, Ford, Small Block, Pair
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1764

Cometic Gasket, Inc.: Head Gasket, Multi-Layer Steel, 4.030 in. Bore, 0.027 in. Compressed Thickness, Ford, 289, 302, 351W, Each
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1773

Eagle Specialty Products: Engine Rotating Assembly, Competition,(ESP)Forged Crank, Forged Mahle Pistons, H-Beam Rods, Ford, Small Block, Kit
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1768

Edelbrock: Intake Manifold, Super Victor, Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Ford, 289/302, Each
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1770

Edelbrock: Intake Manifold, Victor Jr,, Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Ford, 4.7L, 5.0L, Each
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1766

Hooker Headers: Headers, Super Competition, Full-Length, Steel, Painted, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Pair
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1772

Jesel Inc.: Rocker System, Full Roller, 1.7 Ratio, Shims, for AFR 165-225cc Outlaw Cylinder Heads, Ford, Small Block, Kit
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1774

Lunati: Cam & Lifters, 351W, V292HR10
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1765

Lunati: Camshaft, Mechanical Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 279/285, Lift .624/.640, Ford, 5.0, 5.8L, Each
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1776

Lunati: Lifters, Mechanical Roller, Vertical Link Bar, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Set of 16
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1779

Lunati: Valve Springs, Dual, 1.550 in. Outside Diameter, 551 lbs./in. Rate, 1.150 in. Coil Bind Height, Set of 16
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1777

Lunati: Tool St Retainers 1.437 10 DEG
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1778

Moroso: Street/Strip Oil Pan, Ford 289-302, Kicked-Out Sump, Front Wet Sump, 7-quart capacity, 8″ Depth, Black Powdercoated finish
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1769

Quick Fuel Technology Inc.: Carburetor, Black Diamond Q-Series, 750 cfm, Mechanical Secondary, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Drag Race, Each
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1767

Quick Fuel Technology Inc.: Carburetor, Black Diamond Q-Series, 950 cfm, Mechanical Secondary, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Drag Race, Each
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1771

Summit Racing: Engine Block, Cast Iron, 2-Bolt Mains, 4.030 in. Diameter Bore, 1-Piece Rear Main Seal, Ford, Small Block, 302
More Info: https://pntv.us/pn_pt_1763

Bakers Auto Machine & Supply: Auto Machine Shop in Franklin, TN

Race-Gas.com: Race Fuel Concentrate, Qt

The Industrial Depot: Industrial Depot – Fasteners, Hardware, And Shop Supplies

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46 thoughts on “Getting More Power Out Of A 5.0L Small Block Ford – Engine Power S2, E9”
  1. So, youre degreeing the cam based on the cam company spec AND the most valve clearance.
    How do you know that that specific degree is optimal for power? Maybe it needs +2 or even -3 etc for best power curve.
    Every combination is different.
    But im sure that you dont want to set it up, test it, change it to +2, test it, maybe -2 then test it, and go 3 or 4 in the better direction to get the best power.
    THEN you have to guess at chain/gear wear slacking the chain and retarding the cam by… how much? Ive see tight springs wear in top$$ timing sets 2* retarded in 5,000 miles.
    So you are just making an educated guess?
    And people say, "i think it used to feel stronger."

  2. Im in the process of building a 347 Stroker from my 99 explorer roller block.
    Its been bored .030 over. Has a Trick Flow 11r twisted wedge top end kit.
    Eagle stroker crank with DSS pistons.
    Weiand dual plane intake and 750 Holley Dbl Pumper.
    Its going in my 86 Bronco. So obviously the power band is in the 1500-4500 rpm range.
    I’ll be setting up a 4* advanced to get more power down low.

  3. Hey i know this is super late and im pretty young but around where i live and grew up i always heard that the 302 wasnt good and that it would destroy itself around 500hp and thats why all the foxbodys around here are chevy powered or have 351w stroked to 408, so does this prove it wrong making this power? Is it reliable enough to be a nasty street car making that power? Thanks to anyone who answers

  4. The big question is why anyone would want to spend this much money on parts when they can just install a 7.3L Godzilla and have more power and reliability for a lot less money!! Junk yards have em why not use em!!🤷🏼‍♂️

  5. "Just listen to this thing idle" – Then proceeds to talk over the engine idling!! ROFLMFAO!!
    And, you actually made 537 on the first combo by simply changing to larger headers and a larger carb, so the 507 is bunk.

  6. I know these guys know more than I do but I've always removed head bolts 1/4 degree at a time to minimize head distortion but who knows if that makes a difference when in matters but I've had zero problems with warped heads after removal besides engines with known overheating problems

  7. Stage one was 527hp vs 566hp, as for a person to be buying these parts, you would have chosen the larger 1-3/4 headers right off the bat. Right?

    Also should have tested carbs and spacers for optimum performance on stage 1. Maybe it would make best numbers with an 850cfm carb, and/or the 2" spacer? Perhaps with the Super Victor intake??? We'll never know what max for stage 1 would have been…. So we could compare the two sets of parts where there is a price discrepancy. How much power for how much coin? Intakes are gonna cost the same…. Which should I get for my 347?

    I'm writing all this because I'm thinking that, the Jesel rocker setup, heavier springs, link bar lifters, etc … while very nice pieces … Might not be worth the 3-4 grand laid down for them, for the minimal amount gained? Nor having to spin the engine up another 1200 rpm to make that minimal gain. Plus, what would stage 1 have made bumping the compression up. That was FREE hp. Head gasket cost is negligible, and could be worth 20hp. People can run at 11.5 on pump gas all day, you just have to jet and time accordingly. Nobody wants a street car you have to fiddle around with octane.

    When they overlay the numbers it's clear the stage 1 setup makes more usable street power lower in the curve. For a street car I'll take stage 1.

  8. can you guys send me that 🙂 i had an 86 short body f150 4×4 and the 351 in it seized up . . . over a month, we'd just been out run'n it and check'n it with some buddies whom came back a month after to replace the carb for me and some other odds n ends and it was seized . . . shocked us all . . . i'm old, slow and stoned (disabled 22 yrs) so i can't turn the wrenches anymore and being old, slow and stoned i share a constant proximity to 'broke' 🙂 got some good friends to help with what ever wrench turn'n . . .but most of them are in the same field as me (not rich enough to throw a couple grand at a buddies truck for grins hehe)

  9. "more power out of a 5.0"//// " this week blah blah blah with our 347 ………………………………….. fail. " a 306 is a 5.0 a 347 is like a 5.68 . So first to get more power out of your 5.0 is to turn it into a stroker… uh ok ?

  10. Stumbled across this as I was researching 408 builds. Would have been cool to see the parts list above broken down separately as Stage 1 and Stage 2.

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