BUDGET Chevy Big Block Build! – Part 1 of 3 ( Short Block Assembly )

1. RIP Kris

2. We always use mineral spirits and rags and clean it untill there is no more transfer onto the rag. The mineral spirits or u can use paint thinner too it evaporates fast with an air hose and doesnt cause rust to form like soapy water will. It makes it a much faster job because it dries really fast and it I think it cleans it better… It gets more of the dirt out of the pores of the block.

3. I've used the double roller chain all my life and was taught how to use the gears but never seen them used!

4. Excellent video

5. trul y a thing of beuty.

6. How the tops of those pistons not kiss the heads or valves, just curious.

7. Any one watching the fan in the back ground bounce around during the cuts ? I love it !!!

8. 21:15 for some reason on another show the host said why you never spin a crank with not main caps on. For the love of me I can’t remember why ( please keep in mind that this show was building high HP motors )

9. Id rather not have you say to the penny how much something is, thats me tho idk how many people agree

10. I was born 1972

11. I am 51 years old

12. I really like how you thought about lubing the cam and bearings when you put that in. So many times I've seen videos of them being roughly inserted, or thought to myself by the time that cam gets to the last bearing there's going to be very little lube left on it.
    So full marks for common sense and attention to detail!

13. Derek I just wanted to say thanks to watching nearly all your engine build videos and tinkering in my own garage, I was able to pass an ASE test today, thanks to breaking it down and really understanding how an engine really works. Thank you again

14. totally agree on stabbing the camshaft in first. plus it allows you to spin it if you're using a flat tappet lifter, and see if the lifters are twirling around–if not, a pass on the lifter bores with a brake cylinder hone might keep one from wiping out a cam lobe with a locked up lifter. the oil drain back holes in the lifter valley looked to have a lot of casting flash remaining. Putting the block on its bellhousing end allows for gravity to help install the camshaft vertically, and as she goes in dry, you can lube it that way and keep it from dripping on the floor.

    As for the issue around the fuel pump, spraying some shaving cream into the holes where you don't want shavings to end up can capture them, and then water will flush it right out again. Also, if you use your cellphone or a calculator to help out with the math on the bore and rings, bag the device in a Ziploc to keep your greasy fingers from ruining it. Meanwhile, when putting piston/rod combos into a block, considering using a fish scale to pull 'em in rather than a hammer to tap 'em in–if any cylinder takes more yank than the others, you've got a ring hanging up and now's the time to fix it. and if you think about using a knock sensor with EFI, skip the gear drive–it causes a vibration, which knock sensors use in a block to pick up detonation and reduce ignition timing.

15. Derek you are an amazing instructor. Luv your work.

16. "Derek can you tell me a price AND build the car for me."

17. There's a good reason why you are this successful. Good work.

18. I haven't had a class like that in 40+ years, thanks for the refresher course!!!

19. Great basic rebuild procedure. Lots of people try to rebuild an engine do not follow this procedure. They might as well do an eBay rebuild at that point. I noticed you touched the bearing surface. Have you ever had issues with that? I was told that our oils have acid in them and can etch the bearing surfaces. I thought they were joking until I rebuilt a 3100m generous motors engine and I saw a rod bearing with a fingerprint etched in the backside of it. It was not the reason for failure but made me think about it.

20. Does anyone know how big the budget was? If it's already written somewhere, sorry.

21. You’re like the bob Ross of engine building😂 love the video! Very informative!

22. Derek you're only the second person I've ever heard say that piston rings rotate while the engines is running 👏🏼

23. Those stock rods are forged

24. Your video is very informative and helpful, thank you for making it.

25. Awesome thank you

26. I’m about to start on a 427 short block and not sure what direction to go on top end but the bottom end alone has already run me around $3,000.00! But I refuse to skimp on crank, cam, or heads!

27. Thank you for this.

28. As a 30 year IT professional, so many parallels with diagnosing and approaching a build… Watching your videos makes me eager to try a rebuild. It seems to be attention to detail and RTFM. <3

29. Rewatching in 2023 as I have my first engine rebuild in the somewhat near future; a 1997 454 in my GMC K2500 Suburban.

30. And….when you use pressured air use earplugs and safety googles….

31. Love this! Wish I knew some of the technical terms though. Been wondering if there's some cool, cheap engine school or somethin. UTI is like 50 grand!

32. After torquing all the cap bolts/fasteners, use a torque wrench and rotate the assembly at least halfway around, and ensure it's under 45 ft/lbs of 'friction'. My first ever engine build, my brother who'd not very handy mentioned that to me. I figured it wouldn't hurt, and did it. I'm glad I DID! I put a cap back on the wrong way after plastigage check. I spotted which cap was flipped, fixed it. And found the rotating resistance was about 32 ft/lbs (no heads installed). Had I not checked the rotating drag, I'd be very disappointed!

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