We work on the suspension of a 1989 OBS Chevy C1500 truck. It’s an upgrade for the front IFS and a fabricated custom rear suspension to get all that LS Power to the ground.

0:00 – Intro
1:09 – Replacing Front Suspension
7:00 – Cantilever 3-link Suspension
12:46 – Fabricating Rear 3-link Suspension
18:04 – Building a Ford 9 inch Axle

Part 1: Tearing Down the Chevy C1500

Parts 2: Stock to Stroked: LS Makes C1500 A 500+ HP Pro Touring Powerhouse

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PARTS USED IN THIS EPISODE:

Berryman Products: EZ Doz-It Penetrating Oil
More Info: http://pntv.us/pn_pt_18150_615225e1912ea

Summit Racing: RideTech Chassis & Suspension
More Info: http://pntv.us/pn_pt_18151_615226b7d199a

Matco Tools: MATCO Tools are the Official Tool Supplier to Carcass

Premier Plasma: Premier Plasma Table

Speedway Motors: Axle Housing, Axle Shafts, Third Member

The Industrial Depot:Tools, Hardware, Shop Supplies

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By carmodpros

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32 thoughts on “Insane Cantilever Rear Suspension – Chevy Race Truck Part 3 – Carcass S2, E20”
  1. I'd like to see how it did on the street, we ran that 3-link design in a dirt car and if you're not careful you can over travel the front yoke and take out the Trany's tail housing. it will hook up, but the spring or cushion used on the top link is critical. to soft and the Trany is junk to stiff and you're going to spin.

  2. I don't think I've ever seen these guys torch a bolt loose. The single most effective option when there isn't risk/concern of burning near by parts.

  3. Guys I have a 1990 Chevy C1500 350 sport , identical to the truck you guys are working on. You are building it very similar to what I had in mind for mine. I’ve never had a bunch of money so I had to buy parts here and there so my truck set up for many years. Just when I got rolling good with my build my shop burnt down with everything own in it. I was in the process of moving so when I got back to Louisiana I had no place to really live so I moved all my stuff in my parents shop.
    All my new parts all my tools I mean eve that was in my last home was stored in the shop. A couple months later the shop burnt to the ground with all my stuff in it. Then top it all off I got screwed out of my transmission from a local builder. I am almost in tears watching you guys build this truck! You guys are doing a top notch job on that truck. I hope one day soon I’ll get the money together again but it don’t look like that will happen to soon. Thanks guys for all the good ideas. I really like the rear end work you guys built for the truck

  4. I hope when you finish welding up all the new suspension plates you take all the nuts off and replace them with nylock nuts and hard face washers. At the very minimum you fit tho old nuts and spring washers.

  5. Encore applaudissement sur vos modifs'cars& mécaniques j'aime vos façons2 trouver solutions à 1 reparation'compliquees où adaptées pieces carrosserie& mécanique introuvable pour les véhicules à réparer où à adaptées pour qu'il sort du garage& roule en toute sécurité en tenue2 route??

  6. I would think that triangulating the lower arms would eliminate the need for the panhard link and the resulting yaw movement of the rear axle as the panhard moves through its arc. I know its minimal but, at speed through a bumpy turn, it might be enough to affect handling ever so slightly.

  7. Hey powernation…I have been a Chevy, GMC, BUICK, CADILLAC, PONTIAC, anything G.M, since I was around 10 ish, as well as my father was, now after been dedicated to the G.M FAMILY for 40+yrs, I have no idea what "O.B.S" means🤔, on that Chevy truck🚚, also what do the LETTERS…"L.S" mean, YOU would think I would know that, well I don't.🤪

  8. Listen, if someone is watching this to learn about a custom cantilever rear suspension, I think you can forego how a lubricant spray straw works. Just saying…

  9. Just for future reference, avoid heat hardening driveshafts by using a grinder like that, they become brittle. Try using a liquid cooled bandsaw for the initial cut or just ask a local machine shop with a proper lathe.

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