ABANDONED To RESTORED! Rebuilding A Ford F100 | Part 1- Engine Removal & Diagnosis – Car Mod Pros Portal

I’m GIVING AWAY this truck when it’s finished! You can enter to win at https://www.vicegripgarage.com, every $5 gets you 1 entry for a chance to win. Rules and small print are found on the website as well. Awhile back I found this 1978 Ford F100 sitting in the hills of Tennessee. I did get it running and cleaned it up a little bit, but the project stalled out. Now, I’ve decided to rebuild it and give it away!

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37091
#VGG #ford #f100 #abandoned

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By carmodpros

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40 thoughts on “ABANDONED To RESTORED! Rebuilding A Ford F100 | Part 1- Engine Removal & Diagnosis”
  1. I will NOT contact you via message, DM, facebook, instagram, telegram, youtube etc stating you won. Do not share your information with anyone claiming to be VGG. Winner will not be contacted until after March 15th by a giveaway company/law firm.

  2. I enjoy all your videos very much. This was the best so far with the boys learning from Dad. You and you wife are doing a great job. I still get to work with my kids on occasion. Enjoy them while they are young. They grow up really fast. And, i missed coming to Tucson to see your drag races. Just a week too late. Maybe next time

  3. I’m truly amazed that someone was able to kill that 300 before you got a hold of it and I know it wasn’t dead but it was in need of a rebuild and that’s basically unheard of for a Ford 300 Inline 6. I had a 1990 model when I was in the Army and when when I got out and drove that thing back and forth cross country repeatedly numerous times and and that’s how I managed to have something like 470K miles on it when I traded it in during Cash for Clunkers. Now that truck had like 95K on it when I got it and I put the rest on it but never rebuilt the engine, had to replace the clutch several times then starter alternator water pump type stuff repeatedly but that truck was still running strong when I traded it in but the chassis and body were rusting to bits to the point where the doors flapped when you shut them because they were only connected up top and I would have been Fred Flintstoning it if it wasn’t for the road construction signs acquired from the scrapyard to cover the gaping holes and the frame was about as strong as a politicians backbone which is why I had to get rid of it even though mechanically it still ran perfectly.

    So what the hell happened to that poor 300 in that truck of yours, run without oil or enough oil maybe because they do tend to leak a little bit at the rear main but nothing to worry about if you keep an eye on the level and add oil when needed

  4. I had a 68 with a 300 that accidentally got towed in gear once. wiring melted. Dad parked it. 20 years later i put on wires, new oil, plugs, cleaned the points, it fired. smoked like a chimney and puffed out the cap like that. two cyl had broken rings and one had a hole burnt in the piston. But it did run.

  5. ARE YOU going to treat the rust on the frame? If you are going for longevity, I would.

    In my eyes, there are two main failures when it comes to rust, the body and the frame.
    I was hit with reality when My 86 k10 came out of storage with an unbelieveable amount
    of rust, and quite a bit of damage from the rust. Mind you, this was a truck that I really
    liked, still do.
    The mechanic took one look at it and said it is going on the rack RIGHT NOW for a
    frame inspection. The result was the frame had heavy surface rust but was still strong
    and safe, almost like new.
    I've tried two treatments to get the frame rust under control.
    — POR15 was my first attempt. On the fence on the results. It is good if the metal is not completely
    rust covered, like new metal, you prep and coat and it seems to hold up very well. but for my
    frame, it didn't do well, could have been my fault, I was new to using it.
    — my second attack was using Mineral OIL. Spray or shoot on the frame, back side body areas,
    in the fender above the wheel wells, corners inside doors in the bottom metal pinch areas,
    Everywhere including suspension parts, adjustment bolts, oil pan, pumpkin cover.
    What I found was the rust is really porus…. the Mineral Oil will seep into the rust and it keeps
    going, covering it all, starving the rust from air and moisture, effectively stopping the rust attack.
    The metal turns a dark color making it clear where you missed. Maybe not what one would do
    to a show car but if you want your vehicle to last… this'll do it.

    The other rust problem is the body. Not just the visible places but behind the body, in those hidden
    cavities. The rust will show it's ugly presence if you can't find it and treat it.
    Just what i have learned —

  6. The Ford 300 engine is a torque monster. I was watching engine biuld they stuck a turbo on one and they were getting over 500 lb-ft of torque out of it. They put duel header and high inttake and it might of forged pistons but it produces crazy torque

  7. my dad bought one of these new when i was about 4 he drove it till i was 16 and getting my own license by then it was pretty much rotted i remember seeing the highway through the floor it had gotten so bad. my dad had modified his white f100 so with the camper roof was about a foot higher then usal.

  8. I love this stuff. I've always wanted to really understand all the workings of a vehicle. Wish I could do all this stuff with direction and under supervision. Also wish I would have see this video earlier, would have definitely entered to win this one. My dad had a 78, I'll have one some day. Thanks for the great content!

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