FIRST DRIVE Of My Abandoned Cobra Mustang After Sitting For 21 Years! It Broke But SOUNDS SO GOOD! – Car Mod Pros Portal

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In this video, I drive the World’s Fastest Cobra Mustang for the First time in 21 years! I may have discovered it’s broken after the drive but it was still a blast from the past! Enjoy!

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By carmodpros

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20 thoughts on “FIRST DRIVE Of My Abandoned Cobra Mustang After Sitting For 21 Years! It Broke But SOUNDS SO GOOD!”
  1. Ill bet the car also has a 4.10-4.30-4.56 gear set. 1/4 mile car dedicated with a glide will redline across the finish. Meaning trap speed is likely all that car has for top speed. It will be alot more fun with a tko600 or t56 and some bias ply tires. May not be as fast or consistent but wayyyyyyy more fun.

  2. And put some damn FlowMaster classic 40s on that car and thank me later. They only take 5-10hp over a straight through muffler. And if anybody wants to quote that before you do, please tell me you believe in running the air filter at all times. Worried about 10hp but give away up to 45hp for a filter lol. The flowmasters make the 4v sound better than literally any other internal combustion engine ever made since the old school hemis. Any old head will likely agree on this. Just opinion tho. And you need to keep the hood pins. Mustangs without pins loose windshields. Ask me how a know… lol

  3. The tire size up front… 275/40r17 and 315/35r17 would be the exact same outside diameter and runout. The front tires look like they are .2 to .4 taller than your rears… also drag radials are directional and those look backward? I could be wrong on that… and the rear end is likely a 94-98 rear end not a 99-04 it looks to me like its a touch narrower (hard to see but ive delt with 100+ 79-04 mustang rear ends. The fox rears are narrowest. But will interchange. The rear lower control arms on that car DO NOT CHANGE THEM!!! Those are south side machine bars they lift up on the car car pressing the rear end down equaling more traction. That being said, if this car is or becomes a stick shift again get rid of the drag radials and go bias ply. Those bars on stick cars with radials will be expensive. You will bust clutches, snap input shafts, bend mainshafts, driveshaft and anything that takes the instant harmonics from the hard tires (radials) ill assume the rear end has c-clip eliminators given its history. The boost a pump is necessary btw. Even is the car has a serious main pump. Im only sharing my thoughts on this to help. Not saying my ways are the only ways. The front sway bar, take it back off. And when you launch this car dont launch weak. The south side machine bars only work if they find instant center upon initial forward movement. Done right you can hook in gravel with them (figuratively speaking) and taking the air filter off at the track/dyno and letting the sc be open with the passenger headlight temporarily removed could make a 15-45hp difference on a wot pull under load. If you ever track the car ice the intake down between runs literally set a bag of ice on the manifold, let it melt and run again. Id also look into the factory fan speed wiring and wire in a switch to the high speed switch, i do this so i can leave the fan on between runs helps cool down a blower car.

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