How To Use a Pinion Depth Gauge

1. So the 3.375 includes the height of the magnet I guess? The instructions do not say.

2. Do you have a recommendation for a tool similar to this one? I have a Tacoma and it doesn’t work for my pickup. Or if you have a secondary method for finding pinion depth? Perhaps one can measure the distance from the end of the stock pinion to the face of the factory shims? Perhaps that would be n idea?

3. Has anyone used this tool to set up a Chrysler 8.25? I've looked into it and it only has instructions for the 8.75.

4. Thank you to the Internet's best auto shop teacher. Appreciate it Sir.

5. Very helpful. Thank you. I have the tool and was unsure how to use it.

6. I don't know what it is about differential work but I am completely obsessed!

7. Did that calculator double as a shovel at some point ?

8. Bad ass! @Ericthecarguy

9. Has anyone ever tried this type of kit on a BMW, specifically a 188mm that is used in E36 & E46's?

10. Is that a new pinion or are you reusing the one original?

11. As a machinist I hate to say….that chinese indicator is worth about $5
    Go to a quality machine shop supplier and get top notch Starret indicators and 1-2-3 blocks for less than half the price. A top of the line Interapid indicator is about $100.

12. So the magnate is a part of the zero when calibrated

13. Love the video, and I'm looking to buy a kit like this one. Do you know, or does anyone know, if the kit has adapters available for Ford 9.75", and Dana differentials??

14. You don’t need a crush sleeve for set up. Simply snug yoke nut until you get some drag ( 1/2 turn of yoke when a quick hand flick applied)

15. Thanks for this video it really helped me understand the dial indicator

16. how was the magnet accounted for maybe i missed it.

17. Eric. There is another way. The machined surface at the split line of the bearing caps is at the center of the axle. So I lay a flat ground bar (for example a 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide bar). You want a "ground" bar because they will usually be machined perfectly flat and square with a .005" or better tolerance. You cut a length of this bar that will span the distance between the machined surfaces of both carrier bearings. I then use a depth micrometer to measure from the bar to the face of the pinion. I then subtract the thickness of the bar (1/4" in this case) from that measurement. This will give you the pinion depth (checking distance from face of pinion to center of axle/ring gear). I think its just as accurate as these expensive tools, quicker and less math.

18. Thank you so much for this video. I've got myself a checker a while ago from Yukon and boy the instructions weren't clear. But now it all makes sense!

19. I like to calibrate my tool on the work bench before putting it into the differential. This was a large enough differential to calibrate this way but with smaller differentials it's almost impossible. I also thoroughly dislike the dial gauge that comes with the kit just because the revolution counter rotates twice for the full 1" of travel. PS. That is an 1/8" Alan wrench and the 1,2,3 block can be used to extend the measurement capabilities of the tool by as much as 3".

20. Great Video…I have the YUKON Pinion tool….and the instructions were not clear….your instruction of the T&D tool..cleared up all my questions. 4 Stars !!!

21. Good job I just got the yukon version of this tool and it looks the exact same with very poor instructions. So thank you

22. The 123 block is for measuring pinion depth without putting the pinion gear in. You put the race in, the bearing, then you put the 123 block on the bearing and measure to it and just add the 2" to the reading and that will tell you what thickness shim to use. No clue how accurate that is as it seems without the preload on the bearing, the reading may be off a bit. But ths is to keep you from having to make a setup bearing or press the bearing on and off to change the shim.

23. Some pinions have a small step up on the face of the pinion where you put the magnet. Is the measurement taken from the raised center portion or from the edge, which is lower?

24. All aftermarket gear sets (Richmond, US Gear, Zoom) for the most part will start off at .035 for 8.5 and 12 bolt Chevys. Run a pattern and see what you got. Make sure that the backlash is 8 to 10 max for a street gear and 6 to 8 max for a drag gear if you have a round track car you will need even more back lash 10 to 12. Your looking for a pattern to start off on the toe and run off mid tooth (the strongest part of the gear) on the drive side. Coast side will start off on the heel and end mid to lower toe of the tooth. If all that is over your head have a pro do it or you will have one noisy rear end on your hands. Gear set change outs are not for the every day backyard mechanic. That kit he has is in the $500 range and is not needed if you know what your doing. Besides the paperwork that comes with the new gear set will tell you what you need to know. Preload on the bearings is very important also street, Drag and round track all have different preloads. Why? HEAT is why. Rear ends get warm and when you have heat you have expansion. Have fun…..

25. so do you have a clamshell type bearing removal tool you use to remove pinion bearings,?so you can re-use after honing the inside out so you can remove bearings easily? Or did you use a new one then hone it out to use as set-up bearings? I am thinking about taking on my first ring and pinion job on my 98 TJ with dana 44,s and lockers in them.it looks like the pinion is riding a little low in ring gear but teeth are almost completely touching from toe to heel on drive side and coast side.but this is SAID never been apart.man i got axles from said never touched and it looks like factory sealent used but i think i need check back-lash first then hopefully its just that and too tight.but its even all across ring gear so forward or back doesnt seem like the answer.but back to first part,did you use old bearings and how did you remove them without s,mashing them.please help anyone,sincerely Rob

26. I have watched several of these and almost all are on either the GM or Ford 8.8. I guess that all the vehicles out there are either a GM or Ford. Basically what you are measuring is the distance from the center of the carrier bearings to the end of the pinion gear. I'm a retired machinist & am trying to figure out a way to measure that distance in a much simpler way than using all those gage blocks & a dial indicator. Something like a parallel bar & a depth mic. As a machinist all those gage parts seem a bit Mickey Mouse. I'll keep looking for accurate info on MoPar diffs but this is a good video.

27. I watch your Video. And learned How to use that gage. For sure. Thank you, Dan

28. How do I know when to change the pinion in my Acura 2008 TL ?

29. Is the depth number scribed into the original pinion??? Be nice to use as a reference

30. Where the 3.375 number come from?

31. 11:00 The difference between calculated shim adjustment and final actual comes down to the fact the face 3:39 of the pinion you're measuring from, using the magnet as a plane, isn't ground flat and perpendicular to the axis of rotation and the flat magnet sits on it. It's heat treated and case hardened and that process alone can introduce high spots on that face. The magnet will sit on the three high spots that are directly in contact with it at any one time and that position changes when you remove to adjust the shims and do the final install. Obviously, if the magnet is not used in the exact same position on the pinion face, those spots can be different and give it a slightly different reading each time. But any difference is insignificant in the big scheme. Try and get it much closer without refining the methodology closer and you are just going to be chasing your tail as every time you remove it to adjust the shims the magnet will be placed on a random three high spots and the measurement will change again.

32. He has the D
    Force !!!

33. Very interesting clip 👍! As a fellow YouTuber, I am on the lookout for fresh ideas! Nice Job!

34. I'm happy you don't build helicopter transmissions like I do.

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