In todays episode were getting our Konig Hypergrams wrapped in some temporary rubber, and then installing our D2 Air Struts on the 240z to check out or overall ride height options.

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Music:
Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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By carmodpros

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44 thoughts on “Going Low! Installing Air Suspension On The 240z”
  1. if i were him, i will use the chassis of M5 together with all mounting and subframe, cut it shorter to match the wheelbase of the 240z, . cut the 240z body in the middle, and attached to the chassis of M5 left side and right side, then weld additional steel panel in the middle. we will get a wider 240z, with modern chassis of M5.

  2. Been flying through this series over the last week. Inspiring. Love your attitude and the build! Also, there's something deeply beautiful to me about the tubular frame components surrounding that engine.

  3. You do know that’s not a Rocket Bunny kit right!? That’s a replica. RB kits fit better.

  4. Have you realized that there's not much different in width beetween M5 and 240Z? You could use the 240Z chasis/body…. You only get like 10 cm wider. Crazy.

  5. Lol
    Why don't you just extend the rear shock tower's so the shocks are mounted higher up bringing the car lower instead of cutting up the shocks!!
    Good content by the way.

  6. Shout out to Koenig for being awesome about your wheels. If they make a set that fits an xterra I’m definitely going to be looking their way in a few months when i upgrade my wheels and tires

  7. I find this build very interesting and insightful. My question is, how do you get the suspension and steering system aligned seeing as how you have created the frame for these parts to go together? Isn't it possible that the tires will have uneven wear on them if they aren't properly aligned? This also includes excess stress and tension on parts that are not in their original position.

  8. Looking at those front wishbones the front suspension is totally bottomed out so actual driving height will be a good 6” higher than that… that geometry is going to be a problem if you don’t address it now

  9. This whole project was not well thought out. This car is going to be so high. You will sacrifice suspension arm travel and axle limitations going lower. The subframe needs to be raised for a true drop.

  10. Hi B, the diff is dangerousli low now. Why not put the frame couple of inches higer so you got the normal stans from M5 and the body closer to ground?

  11. You know what would be cool.
    Make it widebody with metal fenders, don't use some plastic fenders bolted to the body.
    Make it part of the car!

  12. The cars gonna slam another 2 inches it seems in the rear once you cut the frame that's hitting the ground and the wheel well arches. You'll need to focus on getting the front lower than the back after you do that. The fronts pretty much slammed as far as it'll go right now in this video. I'd move the plates you welded in on the top of the tube frame to gain a few inches. My main worry is that slanted driveline because the transmission doesn't line up with the diff. I really hope that's not going to cause a problem. Up and down driveline geometry is a good thing. Going left to right throws the harmonic balance of the driveshaft off and will destroy the u-joints.

  13. I don’t get it. You don’t want oversized wheels because you wanna keep a classic look of a Z but then you want to drop the Z to the floor which is definitely not a classic look. Make up your mind. I personally like that ride high and doesn’t need to go lower

  14. You're wrong about the threads bottoming out. you already have less threads in the sleeve then you do on the shock and it didn't bottom out. So you can just cut the sleeve.

  15. You will need to keep the drive shafts and lower a arm level at your normal ride height, you may have to raise the rear diff cradle otherwise the rear controll arms/drive shafts being not level will cause accelerated drive shaft ware and poor rear geometry

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