The #FairmontProject needs to stop as well as it goes. In this video I cover the installation of the brake lines on the differential.

If you’re doing a disc brake conversion on your 8.8 rear end this video will be very helpful to you. It will also be helpful if you need to bend and flare brake lines. It’s an art I seem to be getting better at the more I do it.

Link to previous video in series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3Pb_eNLkQc

Differential Basics video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y6vOwiCe1U

The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com

Camera: Brian Kast

Thanks for watching!

Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/64902-bending-and-flaring-the-differential-brake-lines

Parts

The rear brake kit I used and 5 lug conversion kit: https://lmr.com/item/SVE-2300DK-B/1993-Mustang-Black-SVE-5-Lug-Conversion-Kit-31-Spline

Tools

Eastwood Flare tool: http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html/?srccode=carguy&utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=etcg

Brake Line Pliers: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool-pliers.html/?srccode=carguy&utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=etcg

Tubing Cutter: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-50000-mini-tubing-cutter#oid=1002_1

Center Punch: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/general-tools-79-steel-automatic-center-punch#oid=1002_1

Tap & Die Set: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/gearwrench-3887-75-piece-tap-and-die-drive-tool-set-sae-metric#oid=1002_1

Brillo Pads: http://www.brillo.com

Related Videos

Eastwood Flare Tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxeA1lhSCsk

New Fairmont Parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKS0ZLQJpUA

Project Cars Nickel and Dime You To Death: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4AQOG-svAM

**Answers to your automotive questions found here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq

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Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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38 thoughts on “Bending and Flaring the Differential Brake Lines #FairmontProject”
  1. those brakeline pliers work great if you turn them around and use them to bend the brakeline instead of trying to bend the line around the pliers

  2. Those bending pliers you use seem like a pain in the ass. I think you'd be much better off to get a 3 handle bending tool. It just holds 2 handles in one hand, bends the tube with the 3rd handle. No muss, no fuss. Would really make you life easier to find one of them.

    Although… I love your flaring tool. MUCH better than the one I use. 😀

  3. They make long tube bending springs in various diameters. You slide them over the tube and use those for straightening out the tubing and it will look factory straight. The cool thing is they sell them at the Homeless Despot for very cheap.

  4. I've been doing brake work for years and have yet to flare one. Flaring is better, but only if you have a good way of flaring. My flaring equipment is from the 60's and is prone to making weak spots. I have it for when necessary, I've just never found it necessary.

  5. Why the hose ends at the calipers? Silly me cause you need flexy in the line in order to fix da brakes. Drum brakes are different and dont need flexy in the lines.

  6. if you use zip ties insulate the steel lines with a rubber pad to prevent the fluid from vaporizing you will wish you did

  7. One could cut some donuts from 3/16 I.D. vacuum hose and make some anti-vibe bumpers on the long runs of those lines.

  8. HAHA I was literally yelling at the screen @ 21:53! Glad you moved the fitting over – that would have sucked to have to remake the entire line! lol Nice work!

  9. Your drilling reminded me of customer that came into the shop I work for. It's a old Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0L. I don't know the exactly what the original compliant was, but I presume it was either CEL emissions failure, or he was complaining of an intermittent gas smell. Anyway the technician diagnosed as a leak coming from the top of the tank, so we ordered a seal kit. This kit took a while to arrive and we just dropped the tank yesterday, revealing the real problem. Turns out this guy wanted to put a sub in the back and had drilled six holes through the floor and right into the top of the tank.

  10. Don't you put some corrosion protection on those holes drilled for brackets? or maybe perhaps you did, but didn't mention on video? I'd put some on because the next time I'll be looking at it is a few years down the road, where they might or might not rust depending on use.

  11. I am soooooo glad you went to new lines. Great looking new diff with old lines just didn't seem right.
    Btw, one of the best things EVER to come out of the USA was the Looney Tunes. All these years later the humor is timeless and you still get a laugh.
    I wish movie theaters would show a few Looney Tunes before the feature like they used to.
    Ahhhhh, those were the halcyon days.

  12. most important step when dealing with any type of hydraulics. Always blow compressed air through the lines before installation to remove any contaminates.

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