This 2005 Honda Civic with a 1.7L engine has had oil leaks for some time. In this video I show you how I tested the thrust bearing clearance as well as the replacement of the thrust bearings. As a bonus, I also show how to replace the cam seal on the side of the cylinder head.

Even though this didn’t solve the oil leaks, I still feel this is great information about thrust bearings, what they do, how to check them, and how to replace them.

Thanks for watching!

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Parts

Thrust Bearings: 13331-PLM-004

Oil Pan Gasket: 11251-P2A-014

Cam Plug: 12513-P72-003

Tools (some are affiliate links)

Dial Indicator: https://www.jbtools.com/fowler-72-641-300-flexible-dial-ind-set/

Micrometer (with points): https://amzn.to/3pLR0SB

CRC Brake Cleaner 5 Gallon: https://amzn.to/2ZHbW2t

Non Aerosol Brake Clean Sprayer: https://amzn.to/3EmDJUE

Long Blow Gun: https://amzn.to/311658w

Trusty Cook Hammers: https://trustycook.com/product-category/hammers/

Engine Assembly Lube: https://amzn.to/3BiNwJD

ARP Bolt Lube: https://amzn.to/2ZHdcCJ

Paint Strainers: https://amzn.to/3vTWXhs

Related Videos

Civic 1.7L Head Gasket Replacement: Video link posted when available.

01-05 Honda Civic Clutch Replacement: https://youtu.be/hdrG1SfyT1I

01-05 Honda Civic Manual Transmission Rebuild: https://youtu.be/yRRZUgoSzf4

Thrust Bearings and What They Do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vdl7texNgBk&t=7s

Synthetic vs Regular Oil: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lshd7WR-a6I&t=45s

01-05 Honda Civic Clutch Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdrG1SfyT1I

01-05 Honda Civic Manual Transmission Rebuild: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRRZUgoSzf4

2005 Honda Civic Rear Strut Replacement: https://youtu.be/wAfZh6Cp3Ko

D Series Timing Belt VManual: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/1990-2007-honda-civic-d-series-engine-timing-belt-replacement-vmanual/

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32 thoughts on “How To Test and Replace Thrust Bearings”
  1. Excellent work good info.
    I’m curious though I don’t remember you saying that the clutch pedal was depressed while you were prying on crankshaft pulley checking end play, if it was I digress carry on 👍

  2. I’m over 70, time served marine engine fitter. I knew a lovely, old school, old engineer when I was 30. He insisted that every bolt he took out, must go back only into the hole it came out of.
    Thanks for sharing

  3. I had the EXACT problems with my 2001 Civic. I dropped the oil pan and installed a new gasket. But no fix. Then the leak also stated on the other side. Honda dropped the ball on this generation. I read that these have problems with the main seals leaking.

  4. This was so well produced! I love that you covered the job in depth, and explained exactly what the parts were for and why they could cause these problems. I am now a better informed consumer!

  5. This is actually perfect timing, Eric! I have pretty much the same exact car with the same engine, and my oil pan gasket is leaking! I plan to replace it next oil change since the leak is minor but, I'll keep an eye out for the gasket remnants, thanks!

  6. Could brake clean damage the wires? I've always thought it may make the insulation brittle, therefore causing cracking. And then water penetration and so on…

  7. Never seen the inside of a Honda engine so I didnt know Honda engines had a built in main cap girdle. Beefy. I also didnt know they had individual thrust bearing "sides" that were removeable unlike a one piece saddle type main bearing for American V8 engines. I like the Honda version better as it is definitely alot more easily to access and replace while engine is still in the vehiicle.

  8. Every time you miss something small like that little piece of old gasket, you learn from it.
    I once changed my oil and got 10 feet before the filter popped off the car and drained all the new oil onto the street. The problem? I never checked for the old filter gasket and doubled-up.
    I've learned and now I take the extra 3 seconds to check every time.

  9. I always jump to valve adjustment when oil is leaking from multiple places. Valves too tight cause too much crankcase pressure. Likewise too loose can cause delayed ignition of fuel and Mis-timing of the flame propagation which can lead to increased crank pressure as the flame pressure will be out of sync with the valves by a few millisecond. Could also be rings or bad pcv/clogged pcv hose, not sure if you checked any of those things yet.

  10. Thanks for the great content as always. The engine build you did on your dad's truck gave me the confidence to build my new coyote in my garage. Happy to report after 5000 miles it's as healthy as a horse. Stay dirty!

  11. You don't have to assemble the engine in order to check the crankshaft axial play. You could have it performed right after you had swapped the bearings.

  12. At some point, I think my calculus regarding feeding it oil vs. time and money changing parts will come into play. If it's only eating/leaking a small amount continually, maybe I just feed it another quart every quarter year? Unless one likes clean garage floors and driveways….

  13. Awesome video Eric. I’ve always been afraid of messing around with anything like thrust bearings. It always has scared me. I’m afraid I’ll mess something up or lock the engine. You presented the process well and now it doesn’t look so bad.
    Thank you

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