Since my turbo is taking up the space that used to be occupied by my battery, I needed to move it. It’s common practice in a ‘hot rod’ to relocate the battery to the trunk, or boot, depending on where you’re from.

In my case, I needed to remove the fuel tank to make that happen. You may or may not run into this issue. I just want to prepare you in case you do need to remove it.

Here’s a link to the video where I removed the fuel tank: Video link posted when available.

I realize this isn’t 100% complete. I still need to run the positive cable. I’ll be covering that in a future video when I remove the interior to install the new wiring harness. Till then, this should get you started.

Previous video in the series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeyaFW1CFPY

The #FairmontProject playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com

Camera: Brian Kast

Thanks for watching!

Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/66985-how-to-install-a-trunk-mounted-battery

My battery kit: https://lmr.com/item/UPR-9005/Mustang-Battery-Relocation-Kit

My battery: https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/yellowtop-deep-cycle-battery

My choice of positive battery terminal: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/audiopipe-ebt0488p-premium-multi-output-battery-terminal-positive#oid=1002_1

Tools

Universal drill bit: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/astro-pneumatic-9445-titanium-step-drill-bit-set#oid=1002_1

Cut off Wheel: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/astro-pneumatic-207dx-3-cut-off-tool-20-000rpm-and-cut-off-wheels-25pc-and-11-tool-bag#oid=1002_1

Related videos

Battery Maintenance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhnVZ7ZPunw&t=11s

How To Load Test a Battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QiKyjWWiRo

How To Check a Charging System: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuumBVz6WOM&t=7s

No Crank, No Start, Checking Battery Terminals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ze7pzrhRIs

**Answers to your automotive questions found here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq

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Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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20 thoughts on “How To Install a Trunk Mounted Battery #FairmontProject”
  1. Hey eric…So with the ground in the back, do you add a ground lug somewhere up front so that you can pull ground without having to fish all the way to the rear ? In other words, does that rear ground pretty much cover the whole body the way ground to the block does ? Thanks

  2. Is another advantage for this relocation is longer battery longevity since the battery won't be located in the hot engine compartment?

  3. Thanks so much for the help I’m about to do this on my 90s foxbody mustang. I have watched so many vids on this battery relocation and yours has to be the best explained walk threw.

  4. Shouldn't there be a fuse at the battery (maybe in the box) such that if that positive ever grounds on the body somewhere that the fuse blows rather than a fire or other catastrophe?

  5. Cool to see you use several of the same products and install them the same way. I'm no pro, im just winging it but it makes feel good that I'm the same level as someone as skilled as you are.

  6. Thanks for the video. What would you do on a modern vehicle with a 200amp alternator and a more demanding starter; would you run the negative all the way up to the Block & Shock Tower? It seems there's a disconnect between Tuners (the people) and the Mechanics that work on them. Mechs like me seem to think a short "Good" ground is fine but many tuners push problems they might see on gremlins caused by us. My application specifically is a '16 GT 800rw Supercharged V8.

  7. I was hoping you would say something about the supplied positive cable lug, I hate those too they are garbage. Fusion solder lug is the way to go IMO.

  8. I’ve been watching your vids for a while they are very clear and informative. Now I see this, you have a cool foxbody square light Ford, now I have finally subscribed!!

  9. You should be running that ground wire all the way to the starter motor mounting bolts but to hell with doing it right on a video where you are attempting to show everyone how to do it right. If you think I'm incorrect then you should call up Ron Francis who has been making custom wiring systems for fifty years.

  10. When you put the threaded bar in the first time I thought you'd put a nut on about an inch or two on one side then slide that through the hole… but you did it the long way. Then did it AGAIN. You're more patient than me for sure lmao

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